Thread: Rewiring Entire Boat

Originally Posted by Dutchman

Uhhhh.... Hmmmm... Boats arent flat... Wires bend..... Ok , I'm sorry. I looked at your tin boat link on 97 Sullivan . All I saw were pics of a messy boat interior . Sorry I'll go look at the video. Thanks for the help. You do understand what a schematic is ? Right?

Yep, I know what a schematic, can make them, read, them, etc. I also know what blue prints are and how to read them. Also know how to read Geometric Tolerancing and True positioning. No need to make a schematic for a boat, all circuits are simple circuits. Its a simple wiring diagram.

The simplest multiple wire connector is a bolt. Attach ring connectors on each wire, put all rings on bolt and screw on nut. If you want the bolt stationary, use two nuts and mount the bolt through a piece of wood. This is what I did on my '67 Alumacraft.

Here are some links I recommend you read and understand.
Boat Building Standards | Basic Electricity | Wiring Your Boat
Boat Wiring - Free Help And Advice

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Guess I need to get busy installing a bunch of wood and bolts in my boat.

Originally Posted by Dutchman

Guess I need to get busy installing a bunch of wood and bolts in my boat.

You realize that sarcasm doesn't bother me. Mock my methods all you want, however they meet code.

ISO 10133 - Small craft — Electrical systems — Extra-low-voltage d.c. installations
10 Wiring connections and terminals
10.1 Conductor connections shall be in locations protected from the weather or in IP 55 enclosures, in accordance with IEC 60529 as a minimum. Connections above deck exposed to intermittent immersion shall be in IP 67 enclosures, in accordance with IEC 60529 as a minimum.

10.2 Metals used for terminal studs, nuts and washers shall be corrosion resistant and galvanically compatible with the conductor and terminal. Aluminium and unplated steel shall not be used for studs, nuts or washers in electrical circuits.

10.3 All conductors shall have suitable terminals installed, i.e. no bare wires attached to stud or screw connections.

10.4 Screw-clamp or screwless terminal blocks shall conform to IEC 60947-7-1. Other terminals shall be of the ring or self-locking captive-spade type, not dependent on screw or nut tightness alone for retention on the stud or screw.
An exception is that friction-type connectors may be used in circuits not exceeding 20 A if the connection does not separate when subjected to a force of 20 N.

10.5 Twist-on connectors (wire nuts) shall not be used.

I'm sorry man. It's just that we have different applications. You have a wooden interior. I have an aluminum interior. The products used on my boat will be different. What I would really like to see is some pics of rigs that are similar to mine . Like how the wires/ components/ fuses are layered out around the console, and battery compartment, etc.. I promise I won't smart off again !!! Thanks for the help.

Originally Posted by Dutchman

I'm sorry man. It's just that we have different applications. You have a wooden interior. I have an aluminum interior. The products used on my boat will be different. What I would really like to see is some pics of rigs that are similar to mine . Like how the wires/ components/ fuses are layered out around the console, and battery compartment, etc.. I promise I won't smart off again !!! Thanks for the help.

No sweat...
Regardless of what you use to make the connections you want to insulate it from the boat. Instead of wood, use rubber or plastic.

The lay out will depend on where the devices are around the boat. Typically;
Bow- sonar unit, accessory outlets, navigation lights, and interior lights. Trolling motor and batteries, all on it's own circuit with circuit protection (re-settable)

Aft- Bilge pump, live-well pump(s), all around light, interior lights. Each a separate circuit. Transducer wire. Battery power.

Command center/council- Sonar unit(s), radio, Marine radio, switch panel, main power, tilt/trim, motor start switch, instrumentation/gages, interior light, fuse panel and accessory outlets.

Rest of the boat- live-well lights, storage lights, interior lights, accessory outlets, and gage wiring (gas tank, GPS, radio antenna, radio speakers, etc.

How you power and set up the circuits is up to you. Each circuit has its own fuse. Fuse is rated to protect the wire, not the device.
Typically:
Sonar units are on one circuit (and each unit has its own fuse).
All-around light and navigation light are on their own circuit.
Bilge pump, and each live-well pump are all on their own circuit and switch. Recommended to use an automatic float switch, be aware that will require a power wire in addition to the switched wire and neutral.
Interior lights- all on one circuit and switch. You could separate out the lights as needed. One switch each.
Accessory outlets, one circuit and I put mine on a switch. I also have dual accessory ports. USB/12volt. I can charge my cell phone or GoPro while in the boat. 12volt is for whatever. I use it for 2million candle power spot light, night fishing water lights, 12volt fillet knife, Mino-Mizer aerator.

Count the wires, at least two per circuit, hot (switched) and neutral. How you manage all the wires is up to you. Easiest way is to run conduit, however conduit isn't always practical. Wire loom from your local auto-parts store works well too. Count your fused circuits and switched circuits and buy a control panel with fuse block to accommodate.

Couple of things to consider when running wires.
Do not put any wires near your trolling motor wires.
You will need to run your transducer cables, and if you link your sonar units the wiring for it too.
Speakers- where and remember the wire run.
You must put a fuse at the batteries. Power all your accessories from the starting battery. Run your power form the starting battery to the command center/council to your neutral bar and power bar.
Cable ties can help control the rats nest. To control the rats nest, secure your wires with wire clamps. Don't pinch wires, shorts are a pain to find and fix.
Think of every possible circuit you want and wire for it, even if you don't have the device now. Pulling wire later is almost impossible.
Plan for your battery charger. Will it charge all your batteries, if so, are your batteries split. Trolling on the bow, starting in the aft. Where are you putting the charger? plan the wiring.

I ran my wires in the '97 Sylvan in three levels. Pictures I sent were for my '67 Alumacraft.
Under gunwale, below deck, and below cabin deck.

The only thing different between our boats is mine has wood and yours doesn't. Everything else is the same. Use blocks with insulators accordingly.

Progress?