Thread: Need advice

Originally Posted by shermanator

I still say sea foam will not solve the problem. I think you're problem lyes in the carb either the float or the needle and seat it sounds like too much fuel is flooding the engine, just my opinion....

Thats why I said he "might get lucky".

You never know, cross your fingers you might get lucky!!!

OK, I think your barking up the wrong tree.
Its hard to get running, but once running it runs. That is not a fuel problem.
That sounds more like a point problem. When was the last time you cleaned, adjusted the points?

Go back and reread the original few posts and you'll see where the problem lyes. If you're having to unchoke it and open up the throttle to get it started you're getting to much fuel my guess is the problem lyes in the float. Once started its using up enough fuel to keep it running and to keep it from flooding out...

Unchoke increase fuel/air mix ratio, more air, less fuel.
Open up the trottle adds more fuel.
Those two actions are counter to each other.

Weak spark will make the engine hard to start, and it will run once running.

Go ahead and rebuild the carb, never hurts. And for an additional $20 you can replace both condensers, and points. NAPA should have the parts. While your under the hood, take a look at the coils, make sure they aren't cracked. A cracked coil will also make it hard to start, in fact it may only run on one piston. Yes, it will run on one piston, it will be hard to start, but it will run.

Now, if it was the float, and its still the original cork style float. Ethanol will eat the protective coating off the float, it will get saturated with fuel and sink, engine will not run, no fuel gettting into fuel bowls. Plus the black crap flaking off will plug a jet. Get the revuild kit with the plasti float.

All very good points except the float, if it sinks it let's fuel in as it rises it shuts fuel off seating the needle. If it is a bad float it's sinking and letting too much fuel in or something is plugging the seat where the needle rests. That's why in my first post I said " if you're getting good enough spark " . I'm just assuming its the orginal float, maybe bad and since he just had carb work done it might not be set right. He stated its hard to start since he got it back, having to unchoke it and open the throttle is exactly what you do on a flooded engine, wish we were there to help him out should be easy to find where the problem lyes weather spark or fuel...

Great News Guys, she runs like a new machine! I took the motor out Sat. morning and ran it for 2 hrs straight with the whole can of Seafoam added to about 1.5 gallon mixture. The main culprit was my fuel hose I think; even after the new primer bulb it would not prime correctly?. I cranked for a few minutes and couldn't even get it to hit.

Switched over to my dads hose (backup), 3rd pull hits, 4th pull starts and I ran it for 2 hrs. Multiple starts during that time no issues. Seafoam did its job; motor ran better when I left than when I started.

Let the boat sit for 2 days and took it out this morning and it started first pull. I am still running that Seafoam mix bc it is taking forever to run the fuel out of the tank.

I know the carb was redone on it 2 years ago and I am pretty sure that wasn't the first time, so I doubt the float is the original. I do think I am going to get a new plug for it just to be sure. I have no idea about condensors, coils, points, or when they have been cleaned or adjusted. But, I am very pleased with how the motor started and performed today so I think I will leave well enough alone at this point.

Thanks again for all the help and recommendations. Where can I a guy get some good experience on working on outboards? I would love to be able to tinker with one without screwing it up.

If you want to do your own work get an OEM manual. They cost a lot more than Clymer or Seloc but are far superior.