Thread: Fruit, Nut, and Vine Grafting, Tree Propagation, Tree Care

Funny you mention that, I just ordered emboss-o-tag yesterday to label mine.

Amazon.com

I thought about trying the aluminum printing plates from work but they are a little thick for writing and embossing on but those stamps would be awesome.

Originally Posted by DockShootinJack

I have some of those stamps. They do come in handy

Maybe I should check into getting some of them if not to expensive now.

I'm making a few labels each day. I have a small set from Harbor Freight that work very well but the print is tiny. They may offer a larger set I didn't look as I already had the big set.

Didn't think to check there. They have 1/8", 1/4" and 3/8" stamping sets from ($10 - $25) I think I will get me a set. Thanks John.

I just found this thread. Very interesting read. A lot of it was over my head with some terminology I'm not familiar with. I have always wanted to learn to graft so I could take a male persimmon and give it a Bruce Jenner so it will produce fruit for my deer. We have several very mature persimmons on the property up by my parents back yard that produce fruit very heavily. I would love to take a cutting off one of them and graft it to a couple of smaller trees in my back field. But I honestly have no idea where to start. I saw you say something about using a first year branch for a cutting. On a tree that mature I'm not sure I could even get to the new growth. There are some low limbs where I'm sure there has to be some new on them but I'm not sure how I would tell in the winter to make my cutting.

I planted an Ayers Pear tree in the field behind the house to eventually get a little fruit for us and some for the deer. It's growing tall but not out at all. I had a cage around it to keep the deer off but it was starting to restrict the tree. Thus why its probably growing more up than out. Now that I removed the cage, the deer have eaten up all the leaves they can reach and twisted up the lower branches. Haven't rubbed the trunk bad...yet. I'm thinking it may need some pruning late this winter but I'm not sure about what to prune. I have yet to see any blooms on it. I'm thinking I need to plant a second pear tree like a Bartlet to give it something to cross pollinate with once it does eventually have blooms. I've also read that I may need to lime the soil around the tree to get it to produce in my area (upstate SC). As you can tell, this isn't exactly my field of expertise. I can grow a mean clover plot and have been able to keep it going 8 years with deer in it every night back there but don't know much about fruit trees at all.

So if you want to clone wild Persimmons with the other tree you do need scions (straight wood sticks with buds from this years growth) to graft with. These are collected in late February and stored in a ziploc bag along with a very little bit of damp paper towel. You store your wood in a refrigerator no lower than 38 degrees (I keep at 40 degrees). When the wild trees are as large as 2in diameter or bigger you must wait till some sap is flowing before grafting (Top Working) so your hard earned scion does not die by drying out while waiting on the Bark Graft to take place. Smaller trees can be grafted dormant using the Whip & Tongue technique. Numerous videos are on YouTube and is where I taught myself. The cool thing is if you do your grafting higher up on the trunk, I'm usually 5ft or more off the ground and the graft dies, the original tree usually just buds out below where you cut it off. You can get more than one chance for success.

Originally Posted by rojoguio

So if you want to clone wild Persimmons with the other tree you do need scions (straight wood sticks with buds from this years growth) to graft with. These are collected in late February and stored in a ziploc bag along with a very little bit of damp paper towel. You store your wood in a refrigerator no lower than 38 degrees (I keep at 40 degrees). When the wild trees are as large as 2in diameter or bigger you must wait till some sap is flowing before grafting (Top Working) so your hard earned scion does not die by drying out while waiting on the Bark Graft to take place. Smaller trees can be grafted dormant using the Whip & Tongue technique. Numerous videos are on YouTube and is where I taught myself. The cool thing is if you do your grafting higher up on the trunk, I'm usually 5ft or more off the ground and the graft dies, the original tree usually just buds out below where you cut it off. You can get more than one chance for success.

I'll have to take a hard look at the tree I'm wanting to take my cuttings from when I get back in town tomorrow. I don't think of any of the growth being very straight on a persimmon limb but I could be mistaken. How long of a limb are we talking that I need?

I need to do this with some persimmons here. I have mature trees all over to get scions from.