Thanks: 
HaHa: 
Reply With QuoteIf you have room add a 4th battery to split the load the cranking battery did support. I have a battery just for cranking the OB and gauges, and a battery just for the 3 FF's on my boat. A grp 24 will handle the FF's for a 8 hr day on the water.
Trophy King II
Battery configuration...
My starting battery died and as I was removing it - I wondered if I had placed to much of a load on it causing premature failure.
I have three batteries two for a 24 volt trolling motor and one starting battery. The only thing on the trolling motor circuit is the trolling motor. The starting battery circuit has everything else, two Helix 10's, Power-pole, 360 imaging, all dash gauges and lights.
Just wondering if I should split the load between all three batteries? What do you guys have on each circuit?
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If you have room add a 4th battery to split the load the cranking battery did support. I have a battery just for cranking the OB and gauges, and a battery just for the 3 FF's on my boat. A grp 24 will handle the FF's for a 8 hr day on the water.
GO BIG ORANGE !
I meant to behave, but there were just way too many other options available at the time.barrelslime LIKED above post
Trophy King II
Thanks for the comment.. but absolutely no room for a 4th battery w/o major re-configurations.
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Do you have room for a bigger cranking battery ? I run everything on my cranking batter except my TM.......live well aerator....another air pump....3 FFs .....using a group 29 battery....no problems.
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Like G said you need to use a larger cranking battery and deep cycle is fine to use for cranking. Room permitting the 29 would be best but 27 is next best option if it gets to where you have to shoe horn it in. 27 I'd just a little smaller length wise.
Crappie Wall Hanger
Do you rely on the motor to recharge or done from on board charger? If onboard charger Is it plugged in all the time when boat is on the trailer. I have been told a quick return to full charge after use and the maintenance cycle of the onboard charger is important to get max life out of a battery. Either way, if you are going to replace the crank go with a 27.
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What kind of charger do you have I have a min Kota d210 and I don't know how it charges except when it is plugged inOriginally Posted by Marine4life
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You are correct, it has to be plugged in. What I meant to say is the best thing to do is keep it plugged in where ever it is you park or store the boat. Many of the onboard chargers go through a process to test, charge and maintain. I have two Pro Mariners, 2 banks each, to charge all 4 batteries. Yours, I believe, is a 2 bank, 5 amps each bank. I assume both banks are connected to the TM batteries since you have a 24 volt TM system. If so and you don't have one connected to the crank battery you may want to consider changing or adding another one to the crank. It is not recommended to have only one bank connected to only 1 battery in a 2 battery 24 volt configuration.
If your crank battery sits for long periods of time, during storage or between use then it isn't good for battery life. If you go fishing and run your electronics and accessories for a long period of time and then only run your big motor for a few minutes to get back to the ramp then you are likely leaving your crank battery in a state less than fully charged because the alternator/generator/rectifier doesn't have enough time to recharge the battery. It can take many hours to recharge a battery at 5 amps. The longer you leave the battery in this state apparently reduces its life.
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You have had some good advice here already but I did not get to fish today so I am going to throw something in here to help with the withdrawal. I hate being broken down on the water and hate having a dead cranking battery even more. Therefore my cranking battery is used to start the engine and run the depth finders only everything else runs on the trolling batteries. That way my motor always cranks. Boats don't come wired that way I had to modify things to make that happen. Given a choice would you rather have your trolling motor give up or your boat not start. You could throw a Perko switch in to help. I run the depth finders on the cranking battery to prevent RF interference from affecting the depth finders. The Perko switch would go to just one of the trolling batteries and the cranking battery for emargencies. I know this is getting long winded but bear with me. The easiest solution is a 3 bank charger. I like the minn-Kota chargers also. If your cranking battery got anywhere close to 90 percent discharge it is toast, I would not trust it. You can help battery discharge issues by replacing all on board light bulbs with LED bulbs. They have a very low current draw. While D.C. Theory is an exact science opinions vary and this is mine. Not necessarily correct but I needed a dead cranking battery only one time to make these changes and have altered every boat I have had since going to this configuration. Hope this is helpful.
