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Thread: 1560 Procraft motor question....

  1. #1
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    Default 1560 Procraft motor question....


    Here is my current situation, my boat is is a 1980 (or maybe 1979) model Procraft 1560 fiberglass boat. I fish about 1/2 the time by myself and the other half with usually one person but occasion a couple (it gets crowded quick). Anyway, point is I am a big guy and so are most that I would take out with me - and I typically take a lot of gear - going often for crappie and switching to catfish at dark, sometimes camping overnight even on the river.

    The plate says it is rated for a max of a 115HP, but when I bought the boat, it had (and still as) a big 150 Mercury inline 6 also from 1979 or 1980 (one of each, I just don't recall which one is which right now). Clearly that big 150HP will move the boat along the water, fairly quickly. But is a BIG old thing and clearly not rated correctly. And if the boat doesn't balance out right with a bunch of gear and 2 people it can sometimes be bit to get it to plane out.

    I am thinking seriously about swapping it out with a smaller motor this winter, that is both smaller and lighter weight but also a few years newer - depending on what I can find of course. Nothing forcing me to do this keep in mind, that 150 purs on low speed but is especially sweet when running it out top end. My question though is what size motor range do I need to be looking at. Obviously 115 is my top size, but really when I look at the weights on the motors that doesn't drop that much weight off - maybe 60-80 pounds, depending on. I see 200 pounds if I went to down to a typical 50HP. I don't need to be the fastest boat on the water, but also don't want to be in the situation of where I will not run 6-7 miles up the river or accross the lake because I can't plane out.

    Additional information, the dry weight on the boat is listed as 750lbs. I am thinking that is probably a little light personally - of course there are lots of things added to it (trolling motor, finders, etc and just typical gear) in addition to the motor itself.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    Here is what I know based on my experience with power to weight ratio.

    I have a Alumacraft competitor rated for a 150hp motor.
    I have a 140hp Suzuki motor. Both the boat and the motor are 6 months old.
    With Suzuki, they built their 90hp, 115hp, and their 140hp with the same block (small block). They built the 150 and three others with their big block. The weight difference between my 140 and the 150 is about 60lbs. I have a friend that has the identical boat to mine but a 150hp motor. I actually get about 5mph top end more than he does based on the weight savings. I also get way better fuel economy than he does and my boat comes out of the hole a heck of a lot quicker.

    A few short years ago, guys still wanted 2 stroke motors because the rating plates on most boats were rated for the two stroke weight (less than a 4 stroke). The 4 stroke took way longer to get the boat up on plane and even longer to run through the power cycle. Now days, they have come a long way. Almost to a point where there is little value to getting a 2 stroke vice a 4 stroke in terms of performance (I said almost).

    If your biggest issue is getting a boat up on plane, you may simply want to look at installing a hydrofoil stabilizer. I personally have used the Doil Fin on many of my boats. In fact, this boat is the only one I have owned that I didn't put one on as I can hit the throttle and come right on plane.

    If I were you, I would look at the weight of your current motor and compare it to todays weights and see where you come out. Then, you can find out how much weight savings you would have if you went to a 90hp Yamaha or Suzuki, or whatever.
    I am strictly guessing here, but you might be happy with a 90hp motor that gives you the correct balance and enough HP to get her out of the water and up on plane. That said, the 115 will weight about the same. It usually boils down to money!

    Another option would be the installation of trim tabs. Trim tabs in the down position will create drag in the water which, in turn will pull the front end of the boat down. Once the motor comes up on RPM, you can adjust the trim tabs (electric or Hydraulic) to get your bow in the sweet spot.

    Hope this muddies the water for you and gives you a few options.
    I have OCD "Obsessive Crappie Disorder"
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  3. #3
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    I should have mentioned that I already have the hydrofoil stablelizer on this motor. It never has a problem getting a plan with just me, but with another big person and a lot of weight sometimes it be a pain. I am also thinking that something that is a little smaller and maybe a bit slower will be a bit easier on the fuel - as that big inline 6 will drink the gas down like it was still under a dollar a gallon. THanks for the information though, I figure there is a sweet spot, that can probably computed with a mathematical formula between weight of the boat, motor, and HP - but I have no idea of what it is....

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    My opinion is this, a newer 90-115 should be all the motor needed. Now if that motor has trim and tilt there should never be an issue of not getting on plane. Maybe play with different props, or call Power Tech Props and tell them your boat, motor, load size etc and see what they suggest.
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  5. #5
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    Your best bet is to go to the latest model 115 you can afford. Then play with props until you find the one that works best fore the loads you are carrying. You got a lot of motor on that boat for the size it is. If it was me and that motor runs as good as you say think I would just find the next size smaller prop and give it a try when you are going to be loaded heavy. Just watch your RPM and don't over wind it. Buying a newer motor could buy a couple of props and an awful lot of gas. Anything less than a 90 would have you pulling your hair out. Doubt you could come close to getting on plain with anything less.
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