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Thread: Motor will not start

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    Default Motor will not start


    I have a 83 model 50 hp Mercury 2 stroke and it will not start. When I turn the key on I hear a click in the motor but it will not turn over. It had the same issue a week ago which I fixed accidently. The nut was loose that holds the switch. When I got it straight and tight the motor turned over just fine. Today when I was in the middle of the lake it just clicked again and wouldn't turn over. I messed with the switch but no luck. Any idea what the problem is? Thanks JB

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    Check your battery while trying to crank. A weak battery will not allow the starting circuit to work properl and can cause long term damage to the circuit. If the battery checks out ok I would check for power on the output side of the starter relay. The relay contacts may have detiorated over time and intermittently make contact when the electrical current jumps the contacts. Or a bad spot in the starter.

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    I had the battery checked out and it is fine. I added a onboard charger to it and it shows to be fully charger. the starter was replaced in June so it should be ok but I will check it out. thank you for your input

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    Scrapper is offline Crappie Wall Hanger II - Moderator Mechanics forum
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    When you say, the nut was loose that holds the switch...what exactly are you talking about. If it by chance is the solenoid, like Inline said, not only could the internals be bad, but if you tighted then nut that holds the wire down you could have spun the stud internally. They have a jam nut that hold the stud in place, if you tighten them and happen to spin the stud in the jam nut, you may get it tight but damage the internals in the process. I say this because you said it started fine after you tightend it, but then it didn't later.

    Are you comfortable jumping across the solenoid to rule it out? If you are getting a click and all else checks out, I'm leaning to the solenoid.
    "But if serving the Lord seems undesirable to you, then choose for yourselves this day whom you will serve, whether the gods your ancestors served beyond the Euphrates, or the gods of the Amorites, in whose land you are living. But as for me and my household, we will serve the Lord.” Joshua 25:15

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    Barnacle Bill is offline Super Mod and 2014 Crappie.com Man of the Year * Crappie.com Supporter
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrapper View Post
    When you say, the nut was loose that holds the switch...what exactly are you talking about. If it by chance is the solenoid, like Inline said, not only could the internals be bad, but if you tighted then nut that holds the wire down you could have spun the stud internally. They have a jam nut that hold the stud in place, if you tighten them and happen to spin the stud in the jam nut, you may get it tight but damage the internals in the process. I say this because you said it started fine after you tightend it, but then it didn't later.


    Are you comfortable jumping across the solenoid to rule it out? If you are getting a click and all else checks out, I'm leaning to the solenoid.
    I agree.
    Fair Winds and Following Seas

    Bill H. PTC USN Ret
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    Scrapper I am talking about the ignition switch.. Think there may be a loose connection somewhere????

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    Okay. I wouldn't think you would get a click from a loose connection on a switch. Unless, the connection to the starter solenoid power is loose/corroded/internally damaged. You say you here a click. If you are pushing in on the key like you would normally, that is the choke clicking. Also if you have a bad connection to the solenoid, you "can" get a solenoid click but not enough amperage to cause the solenoid to complete the circuit so the starter will engage.

    Think of the solenoid as a light switch. Works the same way, except instead of a finger flipping it on and off, you have a power wire, from your ignition switch that flips it. Once flipped two contacts come together and allow the energy from the battery to go to the starter. Once you let off the energy is gone to your switch and the contacts come apart.

    You may need to try a new switch. Find the wire that goes to the solenoid on your ignition switch. Using a jumper wire put power to that wire. If the engine starter spins the engine. Its your switch. If not it could be the wire going to the solenoid...or possibly the solenoid itself. But since the switch seems to be the problem I bet the solenoid is fine.

    Not trying to say you don't know all this. Just the old teacher coming out in me.
    "But if serving the Lord seems undesirable to you, then choose for yourselves this day whom you will serve, whether the gods your ancestors served beyond the Euphrates, or the gods of the Amorites, in whose land you are living. But as for me and my household, we will serve the Lord.” Joshua 25:15

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    No actually I don't already know all of this. Not very mech inclined.. That is Why I am on here looking for help. I am not pushing the key in when I hear the click. I know when I push the key in it will click when it chokes the motor. Different click and will click without choking it. I will see if i can check the switch by jumping it. Thanks for your input

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    Scrapper's Avatar
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    Do you have a volt meter/multi meter?? Or a test light? When jumping it, it won't take much...you are just wanting to bump the starter...you'll here it bump.

    THe click is when you turn the key to try to start...or when you just turn the key on??

    An ignition switch has different poles on it...even though some are working one or more can be damaged.

    Pull the ignition switch and look at it. There will be a number of wires going to it. If you look at the back of it you'll see letters on it. These letters stand for various things. Juice coming in, ignition, acc, starter, and so forth. Once you pull it look at it and let us know what all is back there.
    "But if serving the Lord seems undesirable to you, then choose for yourselves this day whom you will serve, whether the gods your ancestors served beyond the Euphrates, or the gods of the Amorites, in whose land you are living. But as for me and my household, we will serve the Lord.” Joshua 25:15

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    Try what scrapper has mentioned above.

    Best way to load test a battery on a boat is to put a voltmeter across your battery terminals watching dc volts and try cranking your battery. The mercs require a lot of voltage to crank and run the ignition system. I found the voltage dropped down below the ignitions limit. I could not find intermittent start on a battery that load tested ok but would not work on the water. On the water you have the drag of the prop in the water. If you have a emergency rope start, try pull starting it. I found I then had enough voltage to run the ignition system since the starter was not dragging the voltage down. Another test is the voltage drop test on the cables themselves to isolate a bad cable or connection. PM me if you need help with the test. Can get confusing.

    If it ends up the battery buy the largest capacity battery (29 or 31 group) you can afford or fit in your boat. I prefer the wet cell due to the older engines need to use the battery as voltage sink.

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