Reply With QuoteFrom what I found, on the link I posted, and from messages to the poster to that link, no water is needd. Just use the Duct Seal to attach the TD to the hull and connect to Unit. Let us know how your setup works.
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Crappie.com 2K Star General
Here's what I'm considering......after doing a bit of reading, it seems that water provides better results than other substances (like putties, goops, silicones, etc.). Now whether or not it's a significant difference, I don't know.
I dug-up a scrap piece of 3" PVC (about 4" long), and sat the transducer inside. The PVC will get epoxied to the hull (watertight).
I cut a piece of foam, and notched for the mounting tab on the TD, so the foam is pushing down firmly on the top of the TD.
I cut 2 discs of foam to wedge snugly inside the PVC, and will keep the TD firmly against the hull.
I'll probably add a small piece of clear tubing through the foam discs, so I can fill the well (with water) easily. Now, if I have a FF failure, I can simply drop-in a new TD by just removing the foam and R&R the TD.
Any reason it won't work?
Slabmaster
From what I found, on the link I posted, and from messages to the poster to that link, no water is needd. Just use the Duct Seal to attach the TD to the hull and connect to Unit. Let us know how your setup works.
Crappie.com 2K Star General
Right, but I'm not wanting to physically attach the TD to the hull. I'm hoping if it won't "work", someone will tell me. I guess if worse comes to worse, and it doesn't, I'll just squirt enough silicone into the PVC to bed the TD into.Originally Posted by OleTimer
If I don't get any "it won't work" replies, I plan to take the kayak to a local lake for a test run soon, just to get the feel for it. I'll have the FF mounted before then and can try it out as well.
Trophy King II
NeonMoon. Heres what i did a 4x5'' piece of 3/4'' foam insulation board i cut the center of it out to be a snag fit , i siliconed the foam board to my hull making sure it was water tight an no oozing into the transducer cutout, now all i do is pour in some water before paddling out.
its kind of hidden with the camo bag in the shot
Crappie.com 2K Star General
Saw that method while I was looking around earlier Tony. You have any problems with using it that way? An additional reason for my considering the PVC well, was to protect the cable exiting the TD.
Trophy King II
only problem i did have was forgeting to add water before i got seated in it , mines tucked into the side wall pretty tight an the cable is velcro'd to the back of the bag
Crappie.com 2K Star General
Gotcha! I have a SOT, and am more limited to location, in addition to the shape of the hull. My TD will need to be in the center for accessibility and level. Good thing with your TD location is being able to just reach over the side to add water, that's why I was considering the "fill tube" approach for mine. Thanks for the info!
Trophy King II
A few anglers on another board did something similar.
They cut a 3-4 inch PVC pipe tall enough to snugly fit the puck, then epoxied the tube down to the inside of the hull to form a water tight seal. This usually required creative cutting and fitting to get it perfect. Then put the puck in with water, then put a Fernco rubber cap on top to hold it in place. Some guys have left this in place all season, only to take the puck out come winter.
Just another idea
If vegetable oil is made from vegetables, what's baby oil made from?
Slabmaster
Right. And, as I stated, that is the good thing abot Duct Seal. Its like Play-Doh, it doesn't harden and if it doesn't work you just take it up. Let us know how your system works.
Crappie.com 1K Star General
Mad Frog kayak has some exterior mounting options which would be removable.
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