Thanks Ship, I just sent one Back...
Thanks Ship, I just sent one Back...
Proud to have served with and supported the Units I was in: 1st IDF, 9th INF, 558th USAAG (Greece), 7th Transportation Brigade, 6th MEDSOM (Korea), III Corp, 8th IDF, 3rd Armor Div.
1980 Ebbtide Dyna-Trak 160 Evinrude 65 Triumphshipahoy41 thanked you for this post
As promised I got the molds first half poured this morning and will see if my phone will let me sign on so I can post the pics. in the thread, as it helps with the explanation of what’s going on...
Proud to have served with and supported the Units I was in: 1st IDF, 9th INF, 558th USAAG (Greece), 7th Transportation Brigade, 6th MEDSOM (Korea), III Corp, 8th IDF, 3rd Armor Div.
1980 Ebbtide Dyna-Trak 160 Evinrude 65 Triumphsnake River LIKED above post
Very nice work brother. Those should surely get 'er done.
"Just Like Iron Sharpens Iron... So it is that One Man Sharpens Another Man." Proverbs 27:17Jamesdean LIKED above post
Ok, not sure why but phone won’t connect to the soft plastic thread even though it’s logged into C.C. So I will go with out the pics for now.
Ok ok the plastic container I’m using for the mold is one from the lunch meat section of Walmart. The meat comes in little bags in the container. I measure out 2cups of dry POP then place in a mixing container, in my case a Pyrex glass bowl bought for this purpose, but anything that’s clean will work, but must be large enough to hold a quart or 4cups...
I then measure a single cup of water and add to the POP. Mix very well till there are no lumps, as inside the lumps are dry and will weaken the mold, the POP will have the consistency of a runny pancake mix. Now pour the mix into your mold. I tap the mold several time till I see no more air bubbles coming to the surface of the POP.
Now for the tricky part. Pick up your masters and spruce,I.e. glue stick, and place it on top of the POP. You want it to be in the plaster about half the thickness of the master. Place this on a level spot and the waiting begins for it to dry and harden. After a couple hours it should be hard enough to clean up the top surface and smooth out any irregularities there. Also remove any pop that may have gotten on top of the originals. Clean this up without removing from your mold container. If you can’t get it off the original without removal, or damaging the original, not to sweat, just leave it. When completely hard after letting it sit for 24 hours from pouring time it’s time to add your mold release to this half of the mold. I use a 1/4” to a 3/8” drill bit twisted by hand gently to make a couple alignment marks, that will be filled with POP when pouring the other 1/2. You don’t need to go real deep with these. Maybe 1/2 the depth of a normal size marble kids USED to play with...
Now you can use Pam cooking spray, Vaseline and a small craft paint brush, or a lot of other things to accomplish this part. If you were not able to get any POP off the original, some remaining their, make sure this area DOES NOT get your release agent as you want the new wet POP to stick to it, while not sticking to the rest of the mold...
once it’s coated well, repeat the measuring and mixing of POP as you did the first 1/2 of the mold. I measure the same amounts so the mold is equal on both halves.
Once well mixed, I use a spoon to cover the masters with to insure there are no air bubbles trapped in the plaster next to the originals...and then pour the remaining POP into the mold container. Tap the mold on the work bench a few time to release any trapped air bubbles. Place on a level surface to set-up and harden, usually about another 24hours.
I will post the fishing touches up later today. Thank you for tagging along. Eric, aka Jamesdean.
Proud to have served with and supported the Units I was in: 1st IDF, 9th INF, 558th USAAG (Greece), 7th Transportation Brigade, 6th MEDSOM (Korea), III Corp, 8th IDF, 3rd Armor Div.
1980 Ebbtide Dyna-Trak 160 Evinrude 65 TriumphSuperDave336 LIKED above postshipahoy41 thanked you for this post
Finally able to add some pics, if I can get them to load...
Sent from my SM-G892A using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app
Proud to have served with and supported the Units I was in: 1st IDF, 9th INF, 558th USAAG (Greece), 7th Transportation Brigade, 6th MEDSOM (Korea), III Corp, 8th IDF, 3rd Armor Div.
1980 Ebbtide Dyna-Trak 160 Evinrude 65 Triumphshipahoy41 thanked you for this post
WooHoo, finally got them loaded...
Sent from my iPad using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app
Proud to have served with and supported the Units I was in: 1st IDF, 9th INF, 558th USAAG (Greece), 7th Transportation Brigade, 6th MEDSOM (Korea), III Corp, 8th IDF, 3rd Armor Div.
1980 Ebbtide Dyna-Trak 160 Evinrude 65 Triumph
In the first picture below you can see the mold is hardened up. In the second one I have three drilled alignment Mark's as explained in the text in the previous post.
Eric, aka Jamesdean.
Sent from my SM-G892A using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app
Proud to have served with and supported the Units I was in: 1st IDF, 9th INF, 558th USAAG (Greece), 7th Transportation Brigade, 6th MEDSOM (Korea), III Corp, 8th IDF, 3rd Armor Div.
1980 Ebbtide Dyna-Trak 160 Evinrude 65 Triumph
I have a question how come you don't put plaster of Paris over the baits . Most the time when I am making a mold of plaster I leave my plastic baits on a flat surface and pour over them this way that you have a flat surface in more even when you pull the plastic baits out of the plaster.
Bob....i think it's because Eric is making a injection mold.....what you are seeing is one half of it....he will make the other half when he gets through with this half.
I have spent most my life fishing........the rest I wasted.
PROUD MEMBER OF TEAM GEEZER
PICO Lures Field Rep