Thread: 1996 Blazer VL100 Restoration to Crappie Chaser

Definitely some fine work

I am having a bit of trouble letting some of the OK work go. High levels of orange peel from building gelcoat up over the glass work, repair work, etc. Later in life, floating around on Ross Barnett I will see the heavy peel in the reflection and be disappointed I didn't fix. Also sinking of gloss due to using a substitute reducer instead of the Duratec reducer. The break line I chose are because it is very, very, difficult to get in and out of a cockpit to spray. Over the years I sprayed entire top caps in one application then learned tricks to make it easier.



The lower mask line you see is applied right under the last hard line so after applied I use 320 grit (dry) to scuff off the ledge created by gelcoating the cockpit deck. Returning to the tricks picked up over the years, if your ledge is downward no one notices it, make sure your masking tape leaves the upward ledge exposed so it can be scuffed down. Gelcoat build will hide it on the re-coat.



You can see in this picture the amount of Orange Peel I sprayed building up the Gelcoat millage. It sands level, just keep your sandpaper sharp bucause this stuff is tough to sand.



These final, thinner, gelcoat applications are a lower, wetter, application and need better masking to prevent bleed thru. All the masking tape edges were doubled then scuffed over with a red scotchbrite pad. Heavy roll brown paper from Lowes was used.



My Mercedes is in the shop with issues. Also it's in the way. While sanding gelcoat in a enclosed area you should cover anything you don't want the finish permanently damaged. Gelcoat dust is abrasive and doesn't blow off or wash off well. It seems to stick once it gets damp.



Here after quite a bit of sanding I have the orange peel sanded out, the GRP double wiped with acetone, and ready to move out to gelcoat.



So I sprayed 3 more coats of gelcoat but this time progressively increased the Duratec High Gloss Additive to a final 65/35 mix Duratec to Gelcoat with as much as 15% reducer on the final pass. As soon as you mix your coating's viscosity increases so don't think you can leave material in the gun for another pass. Clean your gun between every coat. This shine will last me till I'm too old to fish. Although the Duratec / Gelcoat mixture takes a long time to fully cure (no thumbnail marks) once fully cured it is remarkable how hard and durable it is. Use Duratec Products in your projects.

Stunning!

The hatches had holidays where the flange to filler plug didn't stick. While grinding to see if any leveling could be achieved to reduce fairing work I went right thru the glass. Of course nothing was stuck 1/2 way around. So I decided to punt. You can see how large the holiday was in one hatch, the finish gelcoat on the underside is all cracked from the hatch flexing so much.



I got on the phone to my Aluminum Supplier T&C Metals. If you need Aluminum T&C Metals is a great resource. Anyway I have a hatch maker, it's called a 6ft HD Finger Brake. So I have a 4x12ft sheet of 5052 in 1/8in thick aluminum on the way next week to fabricate all new hatches out of.



With the forced re-direction I started looking at what had to happen first on setting the console. Well I'm using as much drop as possible and I happen to have a new in the box Yamaha 703 side control. So the first thing that had to be pulled thru the rigging tube I installed it the Big, Fat, 10 Pin engine side electrical connector. I would never get it thru with Hydraulic Steering hoses, Control Cables, etc. It HAD to go first. Well again, my plan was to pull stuff thru then set the console. Would work if I was using a Yamaha 704 Control but I didn't have "New" 704's lying around so I'm forced to change my plan again.



I may be moving to "Senior Status" but my aim was flawless, the front screws hit dead center the transverse stringer.



Lastly, got the Engine 10 pin pulled thru the rigging tube and fitted the new steering hoses thru the splash well. They are pulled into the console for future connection.

Coming along nicely. Interested in seeing how you brake and finish the hatches….that finger brake looks like it could bend a car…

Looks good. Closer and closer everyday.

This is just what to call it, Rigging is like making Sausage, no pretty way to get it done. What a mess, I know that feeling well, the mess comes at the end of the job. Gelcoat still has to be applied but not now so onward with the rest.




The aluminum arrived yesterday so I am making hatches. I will post separately as a feature for Fiberglass to Aluminum hatch conversion.



Of course this boat is getting a custom aluminum drive on trailer. Got those needed materials in too.



Lastly, I have held on to this Z Car for 15 years to build a Ferrari GTO 350 kit car. I just don't have the energy anymore for it. A guy is buying it for a 5.3/4L60E build with his son who is going to Auto Mechanic's school right now. This had a 350SBC / 6 Speed in it when I bought it. What a heart break to let it go...............terrible, just terrible, I need Hurricane to distract me............

Just a teaser to what's on the way. I prefer to write the next post in such a way if someone decides to make themselves new aluminum hatches all of the details that need to be kept in mind are written in the post. I can tell you this, pulling on the big manual finger brake handles was easier 10 years ago. I used a cheater pipe on the handles today.