Thread: New project - Sprint 277 bass boat gonna be a crappie boat

Slab I take cold showers. It does not need to be ice cold just cold enough for you to be able to feel the pores of your skin close. Don't get in a hot shower then turn it down or the glass will get "Set" in your pores. You have to use a wash rag with lots of soap on it and only wipe away from your torso with the soapy rag. Rinse with the rag too in the same manner and it will pull out the micro fibers stuck in your pores from the days work. If you already do this please disregard.

As far as unzipping, it's best to do the entire skin in one piece for a pattern. Check your stringers for rot too. Caution must be maintained so that the weight of the wet boat on the trailer does not deflect the hull inward creating a massive hook where the trailer boards are sitting. I always block the aft corners of the boat up to prevent that. Also I block the Keel forward of the boards so the keel has most of the weight. If the rot is really bad and I am concerned the gunnels will sag away from each other I stabilize the gunnels too.
Here is the link to my Champion, it is mothballed here to be completed after the Camper is out.

CHAMPION 171SC Full Restoration
The type of cap you have is the same as my Blazer VL100. That flange extends over the floor to be screwed down. Quick fix you leave a 2in flange in the deck skin so you have something to work back to and just dig out the stuff remaining under the balance of deck. This is not uncommon the manufacturers were notorious for not glassing under the deck before laying it down.

My Champ is repaired in stages so the hull is supported while the stringers were replaced. I still have to do the stringers and deck from aft of the cockpit to the transom. It has a lot of references to getting the job done too.

I'd pull it to Kiln Mississippi, leave my checkbook and a phone number to call when it's done........

Originally Posted by rojoguio

Slab I take cold showers. It does not need to be ice cold just cold enough for you to be able to feel the pores of your skin close. Don't get in a hot shower then turn it down or the glass will get "Set" in your pores. You have to use a wash rag with lots of soap on it and only wipe away from your torso with the soapy rag. Rinse with the rag too in the same manner and it will pull out the micro fibers stuck in your pores from the days work. If you already do this please disregard.

As far as unzipping, it's best to do the entire skin in one piece for a pattern. Check your stringers for rot too. Caution must be maintained so that the weight of the wet boat on the trailer does not deflect the hull inward creating a massive hook where the trailer boards are sitting. I always block the aft corners of the boat up to prevent that. Also I block the Keel forward of the boards so the keel has most of the weight. If the rot is really bad and I am concerned the gunnels will sag away from each other I stabilize the gunnels too.
Here is the link to my Champion, it is mothballed here to be completed after the Camper is out.

CHAMPION 171SC Full Restoration
The type of cap you have is the same as my Blazer VL100. That flange extends over the floor to be screwed down. Quick fix you leave a 2in flange in the deck skin so you have something to work back to and just dig out the stuff remaining under the balance of deck. This is not uncommon the manufacturers were notorious for not glassing under the deck before laying it down.

Yep John, I know about the cold shower thing, and I immediately did once I started scratching! Great advice for those that dint know. I gotta re-register at BBC to see the pics though. I wanna see. I wanna see. Funny, you let the termites remove all your wood! lol


Great advice about blocking and stabilizing. I know me, I got a feeling I'm gonna block and stabilize the heck out of it. lol

Slab I have a whole bunch of 1708 S-Glass 48in wide on a roll, Woven Roving 24in wide on a roll, and Chop 40in on a roll if you need glass reinforcement. I'm not taking anymore glass work and will still have plenty to finish my Champ.

Originally Posted by rojoguio

Slab I have a whole bunch of 1708 S-Glass 48in wide on a roll, Woven Roving 24in wide on a roll, and Chop 40in on a roll if you need glass reinforcement. I'm not taking anymore glass work and will still have plenty to finish my Champ.

Awesome. I'll trade you for stuff in my store. And I'm still gonna get your lime green color long sleeve poly shirts you requested. Just waiting till I need to reorder product. Have to meet a minimum.

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I think I bit off more than I can chew. I may have to remove the whole top of the boat?

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app

Pulling the cap is not too bad with a flange boat. My Champ I had to cut all the dividers of the forward storage area, where they boxed it in at the console, all the way around the cockpit, the bulkhead between the livewell system and fuel tank area, the aft flotation boxes, and break it loose where the splash well is. The splash well lamination takes patients, all the caps I have pulled the top cap is laminated to the transom core behind the splash well. They are easier to fix with the cap off but you do not have to pull the cap. A section can carefully be cut and removed and to reinstall it you must epoxy little flanges all along the cut line gluing from the underside. When returning the channeled section you epoxy it to the flanges you created epoxying it down as you go. After that cures you do the 12X Grind of the seam then glass it back together from the top. Can't say which is easier both methods are used professionally.