Reply With QuoteGetting it done
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Customizing a Trailer For Hog Fest
I bought this trailer new for my Brother from another Mother. It has been a while since I saw it but when they wanted a wash station trailer I suggested use this one. Little did I know the boards were falling off as it was towed to my shop. I stripped the boards off the other day and thought I took pictures but right now I don't know where they are.
So the project is to fabricate a full width wash table with a 31in single sink, a built in 65 gallon water tank, 12 volt pump, and battery. Totally portable wash station so it can be carried into the tent if they want to. A canopy for keeping them dry and cool is going overhead but must be removable. Also 2 55 gallon drums for extra water must be secured somehow.
Here I'm making some pads that will be welded to the trailer frame so the canopy frame can be removed when not wanted. Using my Bandsaw I cut out some circles then grind the edges fairly even.
Using some leftover Roll Cage material I cut some 4in sections, cope the radius of the trailer frame, then weld mounting pads on before welding to the trailer.
Using a layout center punch I transfer the aluminum pad mounting holes to the steel pads, drill the holes, and buff off the surface rust before welding. The blue rust / paint remover pad on the grinder really works better than anything else I have used.
I use a piece of angle iron to keep the mounting pads level for welding. After its all welded up I primed the raw metal to prevent rusting. Now I will switch to 1-1/2in aluminum pipe for the canopy frame.
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Getting it done
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Fabricating the Canopy Frame
I didn't know my phone camera lens had a greasy smudge on it so that is where the halo in the photos come from. When building a custom T-Top for a boat I add references, here a vertical center is added to work to.
Aluminum pads are bolted to the steel pads so when I weld the frame to the pads a perfect fit to simplify removal and re-installation of the canopy frame is achieved.
Just a shot of the welding area, the table and stands are both needed due to the size of the forward riser.
Now with the forward riser welded in place I can move on to the next step of fabricating the rear riser.
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I think so too. I had them send over their Que Dat logo artwork so I can make custom banners for it. In fact I need to sweet talk Slab into sending the artwork over in a vector for the cool logo he has on the camper. That would look very nice done in chrome on the smoke windows of my Fishin' Expedition.Originally Posted by SuperDave336
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Continuing the Canopy Frame Fabrication
Before closing down for the evening I cut & welded the back Frame section. The back frame is 1in higher so if it is raining I don't want water running off the back or access side of the top. Water will run off the sides and towards the front or hitch side.
To ease tacking a bulky, unbalanced, frame up in the air like I need to do here rigging support is critical. In the next picture you can see steel & clamps used to position the vertical stabilizer while I tack up the bases.
Coping the crossmembers could be difficult but I do something that makes perfect copes the exact distance needed. By cutting a piece of wood to fit perfectly between the riser pipes I use the piece of wood to mark the insides of the copes on each end of the crossmember.
To check the Holesaw cutting location I just slide the teeth up to the marks and lightly by hand, use the teeth to mark the pipe. You can see how this lets you know exactly where you're cutting.
Now that the crossmember is fitted I drill a hole to relieve the air pressure while welding under the crossmember so it can't be seen.
To make lining up the second cope with the angled pipe joints I use a digital angle finder. Since I know my pipes are welded at a 40 degree angle I make the first cut with my angle finder zeroed out then rotate the piece of pipe 140 degrees. Simple math 180 - 40 = 140. Make my second cut and I'm within a degree on both ends for a perfect fit the first cut.
Now I can pull the trailer out for painting & decking while finishing welding out the canopy frame. LED Spreader Lites will be mounted on each side under the front of the canopy and one shining towards the back of the trailer so I have to weld the mounting tabs for those on too.
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I love how you think of almost everything like angling the canopy for rain, etc. Your experience and talents has no bounds.
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Adding LED Spreader Lites
Just a partial post showing the LED Spreader Lite mounting pads being installed. I have drilled and pre-wired the frame but have to take pictures.
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Painting Day!
Jumped from the fig trees right to the trailer. Using a DA Sander I went over all the above wood metal feather edging the rusty areas ahead of the rust remover disc.
The rust remover / stripper disc really cleaned all the rust up well. They wear down, pictured below is a new disc and a worn out disc. As it wears new abrasive is exposed rolling thru the rust.
Best way I know to wash up a project like this is a car wash. Quick trip to Diamondhead for the task and look at the metal now. That is how clean the stripper pads remove rust.
A quick trip to Picayune for a PPG Refinish Commercial DTM (Direct to Metal) Urethane paint. I will have to post the actual paint tomorrow, if you have to paint a trailer / piece of equipment and want it to last this is the paint.
First and second coats, the picture on the second coat does not due it justice, the sun was gone. This paint stays color fast, will not burn out or caulk, is rated for direct salt spray, gets almost as hard as a ceramic, builds 5 mils with 2 coats, etc. Now I have to wait a while before installing the boards. Although catalyzed it still takes time to fully harden, got to move to the LED Lites, they are in, installing them tomorrow.
