Thread: 2003 Triton in for New Power-Pole Lines

Thanks for the advice!

Thanks for the warning

Well yesterday's Power-Pole BLADE repair got off to a rocky start. Those old lines drip hydraulic oil everywhere. When changing lines you must cut off the ends before you can pull the lines out so no stopping the dreaded oil drips. It's all over my shop floor. You will hear a Bodyman say, you don't do mechanic work and body work in the same space. That is because of cross contamination. Every spot will get floor dry ground in with a piece of 2x4 till its lock down or picked up. The Power-Pole ferrells require a square cut on the hose ends before assembly. Installing the new connections you want to push the line into the fitting while you tighten the ferrell nut. Also use a backup wrench on the fitting body so it does not break or strip the threads in the pump or ram. A easy way to bleed the excess air out while on the trailer is to unbolt the top of the ram raising the piston up then cycling the unit out then back in a couple of times. I like to let the pump rest after this part to allow the air bubbles to clear. Do not top off the pump reservoir with fluid till the ram is bolted back in and your power-pole is in the raised position. Topping up at that point is perfect. My normal picture taking was a flop as I didn't want to handle my phone with the Power-Pole Green Marine fluid on my hands constantly. Also the degreaser sold at Sam's Club works really well for washing out the bilge after a hose blow-off under pressure.

So just to update everyone with a Power-Pole using the Blue & Black 5/16in hydraulic lines the speed in which the Power Pole deploys is triple the speed it was going. Turns out the inside diameter of the swollen lines at the ferrel connection created a dramatic constriction to fluid flow. So if your Power-Pole is slow to deploy check your lines. A line set from JL-Marine was $59.