Thread: Jefferson Fiberglass Mud Skiff Repair

Do you have 48 hours in a day? Following

Amazing what you can do. I’m enjoying your post and pics even though I don’t understand them all. Way over my head. I do know if I’m ever to be lucky enough to get a boat, and you’re willing, it will be sent to get the evil eye!

Originally Posted by BuckeyeCrappie

Do you have 48 hours in a day? Following

In my defense I did warn Slab I keep a lot of projects.

Working on the Caddy between curing periods.



First I rolled off enough 1708 S-Glass from the rack to make a complete pass reinforcing the underside Skin. I am supprised on how thin it was. Fitting the 1708 I marked it all the way to the sides trimming off the excess.



After tucking the 1708 S-Glass under the flange I cut a support board to fit just inside the footprint of the lamination at the transom. This is then blocked to the underside supporting the weight of my weights when the first lamination is complete. If I didn't do this step the deck would be very crooked.



During the "Wetting Out" process I couldn't keep taking pictures with resin all over my hands. I mixed a 1% Catalyst Resin, wet the first layer of 1708 out using a wide bondo spreader to push resin under the flange. Then I wet the undersides of each Core piece and in numerical order placed them on the 1708 but inside the flange all the way around. Clamping was accomplished using 2 25# bags of lead shot in boxes and a 30# Dumbell (my Ross Barnett Spillway Anchor).



Round 2, rolling off more 1708 S-Glass and some Fiberglass Mat Tape I started the fitting of the Outer Skin. Since the original core was not fully glassed in properly the Outer Skin has high and low spots. Low spots could and did get built up with hand torn pieces of the Mat Tape but high spots I just had to let go till the final lamination.



The Outer Skin was dry fitted to prevent any surprises after scraping off all the traces of wood left then grinding the skin till I was satisfied the resin would seal the rest up.



I wet the 1708 & torn mat out extra well pushing resin into any void with the bondo spreader. Then I wet the back or underside of the Outer Skin before placing wet side down on the wet fiberglass. Clamping was done the same way, 80#'s of weight was enough to make resin ooze out of some of the cracks.



This has to fully setup and I have to cut all the holes before the final glass work can be done.

Nice looking mud boat

The deck got a good visit with the grinder, it really finds the high and low spots.



After I cut a piece of Chop Mat then tore the edges by hand (if doing a lot pliers work well too) so the edges would blend with the rest of the boat.



After being satisfied the Mat will belnd I tore a few pieces for low spots to fill while glassing. I wet everything out with enough resin to again employ a large Bondo spreader to work out the air bubbles well.



Finally a coat of Duck Boat oil base paint and we are done for now. I have not ran the engine in a few years but it was stored in the AC. I plan on fabricating a new Tiller Handle for it as well as doing some kind of camo paint job to the interior.

Nice work

Finally got back on the Mud Boat while the Mercedes J-B Weld job cured. I had to layout the location of the Mount first then Holesaw the hole. After drilling the mounting bolts up to 5/16in from 1/4in I used a Cobalt 5/16 drill bit for the Stainless Engine Mounting holes.



All the 1708 S-Glass I layered in really beefed up the Deck. The Holesaw had a bit of grief sawing thru everything. I saved the plug for whoever buys this little boat so they can see the lamination themselves.



It is a quick detach design mount so if your towing locally you can swivel the engine around and secure it for towing or over the road, just pull a safety pin and the engine lifts off by the handles on top.