Cold temps and other obstructions slowing down progress but not stopping it. After fitting a sheet of 1/2in Coosa Bluewater 26 where you walk, 1/4in Coosa was used as core for the forward compartment floor. I realized 2 wings would need to be added for proper hull attachment. Due to the cost of the core material, fitting longways allowed using 2 pieces of drop to complete core. After adding wings and final fitting core it was laminated on the shop floor using HDPE sheeting to keep from sticking to concrete. A peanut butter consistency Epoxy was mixed and troweled onto the previously prepped stringers before laying down deck. I have found the easiest way to install a deck is to stand it up in the boat so after the epoxy is placed you just lay the deck down on top. It keeps the deck from sliding, moving the epoxy, making a poor lamination. Now since the deck will have a floor hatch the stringer were pre-prepped so I can also tab in the deck from the underside. After the deck was in I glassed the topside in with 1708, a layer of finish glass, and gelcoated with some left over from another job.
The transom core was only 1in thick, and my final lamination is 1-1/4in thick so care had to be taken to not build up too much where the splash well will be epoxied back in place. The 1708 was dry formed & fitted ahead of time, also the inner core was dry fitted. A layer of 1708 & Heavy Mat was sandwiched in between the cores, all voids filled with Vinylester thickened with Talc, then 2 layers of 1708 was rolled down over the top. The bleeding black line seen under the glass work is the maximum height I can brace transom. Original transom had no transverse bracing like you see on bigger boats. Well, when I smoked a inverted cypress tree with my other VL100 the lack of bracing allowed the splash well to collapse a bit fracturing the glass. I'm installing a brace system like in my ChampioN while doing the reconstruction.