Let's consider mistakes. What if you sneeze and blow a piece of paper on your wet epoxy. Or if a moth lights on the rod while the epoxy is wet and makes a mess while trying to escape. At this point take a deep breath and remember to "enhance your calm" and do not panic. Remove what ever foreign object that has come in contact with your wet epoxy and using your torch heat the epoxy very slowly. You will notice that the epoxy will seek it's own level again and the blemish will disappear. Add a little epoxy to level every thing back out and no one will ever know the difference.
I would highly suggest applying epoxy to a short piece of a discarded rod as a practice run before attempting on your actual first rod project. Remember "if at first you don't succeed then you are about average"
In the end your rod will look something like this.
It is difficult to take a good pic right now as the rod is still turning because the epoxy has not yet cured.
If you have a fan blowing in the room the epoxy will dry quicker. Also; I do not throw away my mixing cup because I test the cup for "dry" instead of testing the rod leaving a finger print if not dry.
This has been a lot of info and I most certainly have left things out. Maybe others can fill in the things I have forgotten to mention.
Redge, DwightP980 LIKED above post
[QUOTE=crappie wrangler;3692635]It is difficult to take a good pic right now as the rod is still turning because the epoxy has not yet cured.
If you have a fan blowing in the room the epoxy will dry quicker. Also; I do not throw away my mixing cup because I test the cup for "dry" instead of testing the rod leaving a finger print if not dry.
This has been a lot of info and I most certainly have left things out. Maybe others can fill in the things I have forgotten to mention.[/QUOTE
Thank you for these posts today. I know it took some effort to do it while working on the rod. You explained and demonstrated so everyone should be able to get a handle on what was happening and in what order. Your stranger will/ or at least be very proud of that rod. It turned out very well. Thank you very much for sharing with all of us.
Thanks for the compliment.
This being a two piece rod means that it is only half done. The tip is much the same as the butt end but I did intend to explain how to get guide placement right if you have a rod blank that does not provide that information. Another important thing about a two piece rod is the ferrule. On the female side of the ferrule I will put a thread wrap that matches the guides. If we consider a two piece rod the ferrule is the weakest point on the rod and the female end usually ends up cracking. If a thread wrap is placed on the female side of the ferruel it prevents it from cracking and from stretching out over time causing a loose fit. I use the same under wrap and over wrap so it matches the rest of the guides.
The last bit of info on guide spacing. If we are not sure of guide spacing then the old way is all that is left. Put a reel in the reel seat and tape the guides on the rod where you think they belong. On a spinning rod apply pressure on the line causing the rod to bow with the guides facing up instead of down towards the water. The line should not touch the rod anywhere. Adjust the guides so that the line does not touch the rod then orient the guides properly on the rod and attach the guides. If the guides are spaced so that the line can touch the rod under stress that is where the rod will break at the most I inopportune time.
This is is the old school way which is the way I do it. The charts I have on guide placement I developed myself using this method and are make and model specific. Whatever other methods that are out there is fine with me. I have no argument over other procedures. This is what I do and have never had a rod break that was not abused. Whipping a snake with a fishing rod can easily be considered rod abuse .
One last note for spinning rod guide placement. Casting distance can be effected by as much as 40% in the placement of the fist 2 guides closest to the reel seat
For bait casting rods casting distance can be greatly effected by guide placement if a Roberts wrap is employed. This is over come by making the 180* rotation of the guides spread across the first 4 guides closest to the reel seat. If the guide rotation is attempted by placing 3 guides close together casting distance will be greatly diminished. I will try to take a pic to illustrate this.
The Roberts wrap is easier to grasp if actually holding the rod in your hand but I will include several pics to illustrate.