Thread: I poured jig head, and they turned out

From 1/2 ounce 4/0 and 5/0 all the way down to 1/32 ounce #4. 1/32, 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2.
Only had 4 not turn out.
1 from over pour and sealed up the hole
3 from using a hook too small and the eye getting buried in the lead.

Well kinda too small because the eye would be clean and open if I could get the hook to stay back and the eye to stay in the right in the place. Have to
lean/tilt the mold the other way to get the hook to hold the eye in the right place.

Originally Posted by fish_4_any

Anyone have any thoughts on how to get the hooks to stay pulled back so the eye stays clean?

Not sure what you mean. Once you close the mold the hook should be secure. If it moves as the hot lead strikes it, there may not be anything you can do about that. I have seen where some drill holes and glue in magnets to hold the hooks, but that is more for the production models where they are placing six or more hooks and trying to close up without one of the hooks shifting.

I have a Do-It FreeStyle mold and it allows the lead to ease up the shaft of the eye and wrap around some. It is a nuisance as I like to keep the eyes clean from paint by slipping on a shrink wrap sleeve. That lead prevents the sleeve from sliding fully into place. I use flash cutters and ring the shaft and then try to flick it free. Comes with the territory when using certain Do-It molds. Other molds have other issues. LOL


As far as the sprue is concerned there are several things going on. The designers try to get a gate that is large enough for a complete filling of the cavity. Sometimes they get it right, sometimes they get it too large or too slender.

Too skinny and you have to get creative with your technique. I have one mold that requires me to insert the the nipple of my ladle to get the cavity filled totally. Others I dump the ladle quickly and allow the lead to splash some. A gate that is too large leaves a sprue that is sturdy. Twisting might work, but twisting might also loosen the hook. I have a mold that produces a stout sprue and I cut them free. Not a complete cut, rather I kind of nip a little with the flush cutters. A small nip that gets the sprue to move is enough to then wiggle it free.

As ypu gain experience with different molds you learn that each mold has it’s own character. Even within the same mold different cavities can act differently. You learn how to clean up the jig prior to painting- clipping and filing. Sometimes we give up and order a CNC mold that doesn’t need much cleaning up. I would but they don’t sell ones that offer variety sizings, rather they make all the same size cavities. Probably easier for them but at $100+ per mold, not much value there.

As you progress you will figure out your own way of doing things.