Modifying a mold

**CTom** · 01-13-2015, 09:13 AM

Lots of ways to alter a mold a little. The putties mentioned already are one way. I'm thinking that a hammer and chisel is maybe over-kill. The Dremel use has to be done carefully since a slip cannot be un-done very easy and can really mess up a mold. A drill press has some use in mold conversion at times. Probably the best way to change a cavity [cavities] as far as hooks goes is to simply lay a hook in the cavity you want to alter, carefully close the mold holding enough pressure on the handles to prevent the hook from slipping and then setting the closed mold, still holing the handles tight together, flat on a vise and then give the mold a swat or two using a plastic or rubber faced hammer. The aluminum casting will imprint the hook perfectly. Check to be sure the mold closes completely with all of the hooks in place in all of the cavities after you have done all of your alterations. Some aluminum burr may get pushed up where the hooks were pressed into the casting and not allow complete closure. In that case take a medium flat file and run it lightly across the flat surfaces on the mold checking after each cut is made on both sides. When the mold closes flat with the hooks you want, you're done.

Any time you are going to attempt changing a mold, spend plenty of un-distracted time laying hooks in place and visualizing what needs to be done before you set out on this trip. Then when you start the project make sure you can work un-interrupted so you can focus on what you're doing. Its really hard to ruin a mold but it doesn't take much to make it less than what it was new. If you are not handy with tools, get someone to help you who is.

**Cray** · 01-13-2015, 10:00 AM

Originally Posted by ifish

I have an extensive bit collection. My sources are Hobby Lobby, Harbour Freight and Widget Supply.Dremel Guides, Grips, Flex-Shafts, and Attachments Harbour has a very good bit set cheap. My best source has been my dentist. I trade them some crappie for used bits. Have gotten some very neat bits from them. They gave me a jar one day with over 200 bits. I have 4 different dremels and 2 off brands and I mostly use an old corded 2 speed dremel that I rebuilt. I use propoxy for filler and shaping. Easy to use and can get it at a plumber supply house.
Attachment 185682

Ifish, help me out. Where did you find a collet small enough for the dental bits. My dentist gave be a while bottle of bits but my smallest collet is to big to hold them.

**ifish** · 01-13-2015, 10:02 AM

I like the collet set better because it locks down the bits better, especially the dental bits. Lowes or one of the big box stores may have these.

Dremel 4485 Collet and Nut Set
Dremel 4486 Keyless Chuck, Not Packaged

**liftbite56** · 01-13-2015, 10:07 AM

If your wanting to modify the main cavity I found a carbide bur on a machine web site. They make all different sizes and shapes! If your a fanatic you can mic. The cavity and order the bur according to the mic. Size and eliminate some of the guess work. Fits a dermal tool .

**Cray** · 01-13-2015, 11:15 AM

Originally Posted by ifish

I like the collet set better because it locks down the bits better, especially the dental bits. Lowes or one of the big box stores may have these.

Dremel 4485 Collet and Nut Set
Dremel 4486 Keyless Chuck, Not Packaged

Thanks, they were out of stock online but found my local Home Depot has it in stock. Will be picking up a couple.

**jackie53** · 01-13-2015, 01:17 PM

Good post a lot of good info!!! WOW!!

**Bobo Greybeard** · 01-13-2015, 10:24 PM

I took a 90 degree air die grinder like you would use to clean off a valve cover gasket with a 1 1/2" 3M buffing / scotch brite pad on it to clean out the second set of guides next to the head on most of my molds. As far as the warming chamber goes, I traded Crappie Pappa some jig heads to take it to his machine shop and mill it out for me.

Hope this helps,

Bobo

ps,

Give me a shout if you have any questions. Also, what type of mod are you wanting to make to the mold?

**Bobo Greybeard** · 01-13-2015, 10:28 PM

Another thing that I have done that may interest you is to use High Temp Gasket Sealer to make a collared mold collarless and to also fill in the spot for the weed guards on some old hilts molds that I have. The nice thing about the gasket sealer is, when you are finished , you can simply pop the modification out of the mold and it is now back the way it was when you started.

Hope this helps,

Bobo

**skeetbum** · 01-14-2015, 09:08 AM

I wasn't able to get a bigger hook into one of my molds due to a piece of the molds was contacting the tips of the sickles. I found a milling machine bit at the flea market and set it up in the drill press. Set the depth and locked it in place and slowly moved the mold to remove the metal that was in the way. All a uniform depth and didn't look cheesy when done. I've seen some molds that have been dremeled and decided not to go that route. They can wander if not controlled right. I'm sure some folks are more practiced with this than I am. I'm headed to Home Depot today for a round scroll saw blade to add a groove to a mold to accept a weedless wire, I'll keep you posted. Some great info here.

**arkansasbowhunter** · 01-14-2015, 12:09 PM

I would like to make my barn a tad bigger on one mold and maybe put a spinner blade on another. I like the idea of a weed guard too.

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