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Crappie.com 1K Star General
The heads were already in my box under my covered boat when I started the thread and I'm too lazy to go dig them out.I can never remember to take a picture of some of them when I'm out fishing.
If you've ever painted or sprayed water on something that had a little oil on it and saw the liquid disperse from that spot, that's what I was getting in multiple pinpoint size locations. It hasn't happened since with no real change in the way I'm doing things so it has left me scratching my head. I did a couple of hundred for a forum member last week and didn't notice it happening on any of those either.
Crappie.com 1K Star General
Don't know if this has been mentioned (I too am lazy and would rather wait for the movie than read the book) but from the sound of it, I had a similar problem and found it was because I had handled the jigs by the lead head before heating and oil/whatever was transferred from my nasty little finger's to the lead head. I don't handle the jigs with anything but forceps now and no more problem's.
Crappie.com 1K Star General
Okay, one point I learned about heat sources. Candles heat even and slow, stove burners fast and uneven, butane lighters slow and had a lot of problems if I was using it too long. Torch lighters would melt an eye hole before the jig head would heat up evenly. Large wick candles would leave too much soot and ruin any paint job I tried. Too much humidity in the house on a day after I made dinner and boiled something ruined everything I powder painted.
Painting after I had eaten anything greasy and not washing my hands would leave bald spots and pot marks. Peeling citrus fruit or a banana between paint jobs, better off painting the fruit peels.
I plan on getting an alcohol burner and hopefully it will be my last purchase for powder painting everything. I love candles but trying to keep an even flame for a long period is a pain. It is slower no doubt but for me it will be the best way and safest. For you, a heat gun might be best.
You really have to experiment and find what works for you the best and that way you have a second best way to fall back on. I tried a heat gun, melted 4 consecutive heads in less than a second at 1/8 ounce and will not use one again. I shake too much to be using one anyway and with little ones around the alcohol burner is so much safer and they can even help when I use it.
There are a hundred different things that can affect your painting, 75 of them won't tell you what you did wrong and you may never know what causes it.
I had a batch of spinner blades that I did and about an hour later I did another batch. The first 25 had streaks, holes, pot marks and everything else when cured. The other 25 did not and came out perfect. I was lucky to figure out what caused it. The first 25 I had pet my dog right before starting and touched the blades all over the place. In the hour between I had lunch and washed my hands. I touched my dog the next day and touched a spinner blade and it left oil marks all over them. Dumb luck I figured it out, most of the time I chalk it to Murphy's law and don't even look for an explanation unless one seems completely obvious.
I love taking my kids fishing, now if I could just manage to fish at the same time.
Crappie.com Legend
Ok that one's a first for me hearing it - I've never had a problem with touching the heads or blades before powdering and mine all come out fine. Now really think about this - you pour your jigs, you use needle nose to grip the sprue to get them out but when you go to take the sprue off what are you holding??? The head of the jig. When you store the jigs in a bag before painting you pick them up to put them in the bag - so there is already something on the head of the jig when you go to powder them and washing your hands isn't going to change that.
With lighters no matter what kind when you light it the middle section when you look at a bic or grill lighter flame looks clear and that's were the level heat source is, if you're moving the lighter and not the jig or blade it's not perfectly in the heat part of it and you get a hot section and less hot section on what you're heating. I've talked to the guys that use alcohol burners and they really like them but I (and that's me) feel safer with the heat gun, and even between models they are different!!! I use a cheap little Wagner dual heat gun that ran me $21 at Home Depot - I've melted a few heads off because I wasn't paying attention!!
I agree with fish for all 100%!! YOU have to find the heat source that works best for you!! but you also have to learn by trial and error how long to heat by each size head your powdering, then dip, and that's just solid colors!! Do two or three colors, or glitter coats and it's a whole new ball-game!!!
I'll also say this - don't expect to go out buy powder and a heat source and nail it 100% the first time!!!!!! Even after 20 years of using it I still get some nose nipples!!!LOL and recently learned again the hard way about Dormant powder paints!!! I heated the head dipped it and looked back after answering my wife I thought I forgot to dip the head!!!! NOPE!! Dormants even though they show color in the jar they go on with a silver type finish - you then have to cure them for 10 mins, then re-dip in clear coat to bring out the color!!!
I dipped the color a bit of a re-heat then clear coated and cured at one time and the colors came out really nice, 4 out of the 5 colors that I picked in the Sample pack came out looking like the web site example. The only one that didn't was the Hunter Green - so you'll find the Dormant Powders double the work if you do it by the book!!
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