Try some 6# hi viz braid and run 4# flourocarbon leader off that. The braid will cast well and leader will help with line shy fish. Have fun.
6# is doable, but you're not going to have much fun. With that kind of reel and rod you're going to have a hard time casting your lures accurately and for distance. Then when you get a fish to bite you're going to have a hard time feeling the bite. Then once the fish bites and you hook it, you're not going to have fun fighting the fish. Like was mentioned, go to Walmart or Bass Pro Shops or similar and get an ultra light or light rod and reel, 4# line, and small lures in the 1/32-1/64oz size. You'll have better results and have a lot more fun that way too.
Try some 6# hi viz braid and run 4# flourocarbon leader off that. The braid will cast well and leader will help with line shy fish. Have fun.
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Model number, name, spool diameter?
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If you want to use bait, here are some very good tips:
Great Fishing Close to Home and No Skunks! - NC Angler Fishing Articles
Ketchn says hotdogs works very well.
Some suggestions - some that contradict/ some that totally agree with the replies.
Live bait - a waste of time considering the thousands of soft plastic lures that catch many species - including gills and crappie. The secret is to find lures of the right action and size and rig them on 1/32, 1/24, 1/16 oz ball head jigs. Of course if the fish are at your feet, a bread ball on a tiny hook would do just fine.
Casting light lures usually requires a light action rod - not necessarily an ultralight. The top part of the rod should flex just enough to make casting light lures a good distance and detect light strikes easy plus, the rod is a crucial part of your slow light-lure presentation. The other part is the gear ration or in other words the amount of line reeled in for each reel handle turn.
Tiny reels are as bad as reels too big for light lure fishing. I use spincast and spinning every time I fish and my reels hold only 8 lb test braid / 2lb diameter. Amazing what a difference line type and diameter when it comes to casting a long distance, feeling the strike and letting the fish almost set the hook for you as you raise the rod tip. (Setting the hook is a different discussion). Mono coils coming off the reel kills distance casts and stinks for light strike detection not to mention line stretch. (Braid has zero line stretch.) To heavy a braid test defeats the purpose of using it and casting light lures is far harder plus killing a lures action. Stay with 8 lb or 6 lb IMO.
If you're fishing from a boat or even from shore, covering more water slowly has more of a chance of getting strikes regardless the species even using different presentations.
Presentation is everything !!! I cover more water using a horizontal-to-the-bottom or swimming lure presentation using slight changes in lure speed and with rod tip twitches.
At times an area requires a vertical presentation of which there are different ones. Using a float is one. A lure (or if you must use live bait) hangs down at the right depth between the surface and the bottom. (I've heard that fish look up or sideways at lures they are provoked to strike.) Another vertical is letting the lure hit bottom and twitching or IOW jigging the lure off bottom. I've had fantastic success jigging finesse worms.
Lure size can make a difference at times but usually not most of the time as long as the lure isn't too large or heavy. Crappie Magnets rigged on light 1/16 oz jigs or lighter allow for just the right lure action and speed.
When it comes to lure design think tail type. Here are a few examples:
No tail:
The lure waddles with rod tip action.
Spike tail:
Flat tail (note: big fish/small lure):
Claw tail:
Curl tail with or without Beetle Spin:
Finesse tail worm:
Some may complain that the above is too much information. In my mind there can never be too much as long as even some of it helps. Opinions vary as does experience and the above is based on thousands of hours catching fish on different waters. Any questions please ask.
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