Battery Nuts / Bolts

[GarMaster]

May seem to be an odd question...would like to have an extra battery up front ....what connectors or attachments would I need??

anyone got any pictures of "hook ups" . I see all the "stuff" in bass pro , but would like to make sure I get all the parts needed, fuse block, post attachments,etc.

I have a typical plug in the front of my Tracker boat with the V-groove on top. So when my built in battery goes down, would like to pull right out of the "main boat battery" and hook into the "extra battery". Do I need a fuse block

Any help on this would be appreciated.....thanks..:D:D

[pstone]

I would think you would want one, but better wait on some of these electrical guys to chime in.... I can't see where it would hurt anything to put one in though.

[Towrope]

If I understand you correctly, you want to add a battery and "v-groove receptacle" where you can unplug the trolling motor from one battery and into another. I would definately add a fuse between the new battery and new receptacle. Fuse holders are VERY cheap insurance. I was riding down Kentucky Lake years ago in another guy's boat when something shorted out and he did not have fuses in line. It smoked the insulation off all his wiring and made quite a mess. Put your fuse holder as close to the new battery as possible where if anything happens past the battery your circuit is interupted.

Now, let's see what Wannabe says since he is known as the resident electro-gadget overkill engineer.

[sticksteer]

Yes, a fuse is a great idea . I wish I had put one on my first boat after the TM shorted out and a fire started from less than adequate wiring. You need to use #6 or #8 wire as well. You can use an inline automotive type fuse holder and fuse (the square type) ,NAPA carries them for sure.

[Wannabe...]

I'm not sure I follow what you're trying to do nor why you're trying to do it if I have it right in my mind.....

So, you want a second battery - good idea.

But you want it up front - might be a good idea if you need weight on the front to sit deeper I suppose. Keep in mind that it's gonna rob you of speed and that sucker better be tied down with a high quality battery tray if you've got a boat that has any performance at all...say over 25hp. It'll wear a hole in aluminum quick if it can move at all or at the least destroy the battery. Never mind that 60 pounds of loose lead is not a thing you want if you're in some heavy seas.

OK, so assuming I'm right so far - now you want to be able to switch from one batt to the second with a plug.....I don't get this. You'd be better off and the batteries would last longer if you wired them together for one big honkin 12V rather than 2 smalls. Generally speaking, a battery from the factory has X number of charge/discharge cylcles. The deeper the discharge, the more of it's life it uses up. I'm simplifying, but that's basically it. Therefore, a battery that is discharged 100 times to 50% remaining capacity will not last as long as a battery that's been discharged 100 times to 75% remaining capaicity. If you insist on 2 seperate batts for whatever reason, it'll work and it'll work fine, but you're robbing youself of capacity and longevity, the degree depends on your fishing habits.

Fuses - I'm not a fan of in line fuses. I prefer a fuse block. That way, all fuses are located in one spot and 6 years from now, you won't have to remember where the fuse for this or that is. If you insist on an inline, I prefer the blade style. Easier to manage with cold hands and to me, easier to visually see whether it's blown or not. Yes, install as close to the batt as possible on the positive wire. A better solution for a trolling batt is an inline automatic resetting fuse. Available from any online marine dealer.

Connections - for the connection to the batteries themselves, only girls use something other than well crimped and sealed ring terminals and nylocks (no wing nuts period). Smear with dielectric grease and check them twice a year for corrosion. Anybody who says different is of dubious intellegence, probably enjoys color by numbers and breaths through his mouth a lot.

Plug receptical. Alright. There lots of ways to actually do it, and I've tried many....direct wire, 3 prong groove, Ranger style twist lock and home made. Direct wire is the cheapest and to some degree the most reliable. However, you run the risk of the TM getting caught in the on position somehow and burning your motor up. If disconnect is your preferred method, Ranger style is probably the most reliable that can be purchased. The ugliest, and I think the best (still noodling) is to get a replacement extention cord, male and female ends and splice to the TM and the boat wiring. Looks like crap, it's not marine rated, it's relatively expensive, and it worked flawlessly for 10 years on a boat I once owned. On my boat now, I have a 3 prong groove deal that's giving me the business. It's days are numbered.

Wannabe...

Now ya'll done gone and got me all helpful and crap. Someone's gonna pay for this.

[Towrope]

very thorough and accurate post WB. You da man!

[willsjwills]

I tend to disagree with Wannabe on one point. Instead of a fuse block just put a 40 amp. circuit breaker. It's got a reset button and you don't have to worry about spare fuses.

[Wannabe...]

Yes, Mr. Wills is right - Auto breaker is best, fuse block, then inline in that order....well, IMO. Truth is, for a TM, I don't use fuses and only use the breakers. The Fuse Block is for everything else. That's what I meant, but guess I went the other way up the list and made it confusing.

Wannabe...

[GarMaster]

Thanks for the well detailed set of instructions.....I'm impressed....

will give it a try...thanks again...now someone straighten out this weather and we can all get down to business.....my freezer is empty and waiting...

[pstone]

I'll get on that weather thing.....well wind anyway... Thanks