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Thanks didnt figure it would be a hard fast rule for distance am sure it varies with conditions water depth and how deep fish are suspending also. Will be trying this with a kayak in the near future!
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BTW when I find an active crappie bite when trolling, I stop trolling and attempt backtracking; so I can hover over the bite spot. Alone I will then vertically jig, setting aside the spinner, if I am using one. More than one in the boat and if we can all jig up fish, the better. Other wise at least one of us will be casting to better pin point the school. For me trolling is to find the fish, then you drop candy bits right in their faces to fill the bag. I cannot think of any better tool to hold position in a hover than having spot lock on your electric.
Troll to find - hover to harvest.
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Something else to try. Using a rod with lighter braid as the main line, tie on a foot long length of 4 pound mono using a loop know so that the mono can slide up and down the braid. Tie a very small clip to the mono for lure changes. Tie a simple knot in the end of the braid to stop a dropshot weight. Now clip on a smaller crankbait and clip on a weight heavy enough to keep line bow to a minimum during a slowwwww troll. Watch the locator and adjust your depth according to marks you see.
Crappies will hit cranks pretty aggressively when they are feeding. Locate the fish by trolling as mentioned and then stop and pick them apart with jigs.
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Back to spinners for a minute. If one is not very careful to take steps to avoid it, spinners will twist your line into a real mess. Sometimes even swivels are not enough, cheap ones definitely aren't. Using keeled sinkers or drop shot type rigs like CTom mentions for the little plugs are both effective counters to line twist. In states where one can rig more than one hook or lure per line (which is illegal here in Minnesota), dropping a jig and tube or plastic shad as a second rig below the spinner will also work, especially if the spinner is dropped behind its own swivel.
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