Reply With QuoteMy trolling motor is on it's own battery. The graph is ran from the cranking battery
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Question on wiring batteries, graphs and trolling motors
Trying to get things right in my head before diving into this boat rebuild. I seam to remember folks talking about running different batteries for the trolling motor and fish finders due to interference from the trolling motor. is this right. I dont plan on running Live scope just a couple side scan/ down imaging combo graphs. One at the helm and one on the bow. Any suggestions, help is greatl appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Proud to have served with and supported the Units I was in: 1st IDF, 9th INF, 558th USAAG (Greece), 7th Transportation Brigade, 6th MEDSOM (Korea), III Corp, 8th IDF, 3rd Armor Div.
1980 Ebbtide Dyna-Trak 160 Evinrude 65 Triumph
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My trolling motor is on it's own battery. The graph is ran from the cranking battery
The love for fishing is one of the best gifts you can pass alongJamesdean thanked you for this post
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(on my current boat)
My Lowrance units have always been run off the trolling motor battery, no probs !! That was originally a Elite 5DSI, then a Hook 5", and now the Hook 7. My current Garmin 93sv/Livescope setup is run off a separate battery (solely for that setup).
On previous boats, the console units were run off the starter battery ... and probably so were the bow units. But those units were on the boats at the time of purchase. They were all the simple b/w 2d units.
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I run my graphs off my cranking battery. My LS is run with Dewalt 10AH drill batteries and my TM batteries are standalone.
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Thank you for the info everyone. when I get to it, I'll be redoing wiring as well. With that whole in the floor from a seat post, the boats going to be redone top to bottom, stringers, foam, transom, and main (lower deck). the fore and aft decks are solid. All hatch lids need new handles with locks in them, and I need to do a new hatch on the rod Locker. what is there now is vertical and the top gaps open. It's has a hasp at both ends on the top, and held closed with two xtra cheap combo locks like for suitcases??? I need to cut the locks as I haven't even looked in that compartment yet. But it will be awhile before I even get started on it, what with up coming surgeries. But I'm trying to plan ahead anyway...
Thank you again all for the info.
Proud to have served with and supported the Units I was in: 1st IDF, 9th INF, 558th USAAG (Greece), 7th Transportation Brigade, 6th MEDSOM (Korea), III Corp, 8th IDF, 3rd Armor Div.
1980 Ebbtide Dyna-Trak 160 Evinrude 65 Triumph
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Top center is the rod locker hatch I need to replace/fix
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Proud to have served with and supported the Units I was in: 1st IDF, 9th INF, 558th USAAG (Greece), 7th Transportation Brigade, 6th MEDSOM (Korea), III Corp, 8th IDF, 3rd Armor Div.
1980 Ebbtide Dyna-Trak 160 Evinrude 65 TriumphS10CHEVY LIKED above post
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I like the layout on the boat. Looks very fishable
The love for fishing is one of the best gifts you can pass along
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Thank you DSJ. I liked the layout also. The inly issue I have with it is it being a tri-hull design, the two hatch compartments up front on the deck are almost useless as the front 2/3rds is very skinny due to the hull design. but hey, I almost stole it for what I payed for it.Originally Posted by DockShootinJack
Proud to have served with and supported the Units I was in: 1st IDF, 9th INF, 558th USAAG (Greece), 7th Transportation Brigade, 6th MEDSOM (Korea), III Corp, 8th IDF, 3rd Armor Div.
1980 Ebbtide Dyna-Trak 160 Evinrude 65 Triumph
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Those tri hulls handle pretty well in a variety of water conditions. I have been in a bunch of them over the years
The love for fishing is one of the best gifts you can pass along
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Since you are rewiring every thing, what I did was install heavy duty disconnect switches close to each battery and reachable from beside the boat or in the boat. Positive leads go short and straight from numbered battery to each numbered switch, all things powered come off the switches. Switch knobs have 3 detents: On, Off, and Off and remove knobs (No one can mess with anything with the knobs removed). When I launch the boat, switches on, when I load the boat on the trailer to leave, switches are off.
What brought all this on was a few years ago, I got up one morning and could hear a faint whine out in the garage. Further investigation revealed the transom tilt/trim switch had energized in the down position, and everything was melted and spun around inside the remains of the tilt/trim motor.
Ever since I have owned the boat, that rear tilt/trim switch did not have a nice detent "Feel" to it when raising or lowering the motor.
The new one sure does!
One less thing to worry about...
