I wouldn't think so.
I'm getting ready to move my bunks over a bit and extend them a little for another hull. My previous boat is 17 and the new is 18. I can move the bow stop up 6-8 inches. And make the bunks 6-8 inches longer. Right now the bunk extends about 4 inches past the back bracket. Along with asking for suggestions & recommendations my question is....if I put 4 inch channel underneath my bunk boards to strengthen it will it make it too rigid and harm my boat?
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sinkermaker LIKED above post
I wouldn't think so.
2018 G3 Sportsman 17
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You will have to look it over and think it over. Weight distribution is very important.
My boat loaded on the trailer pulled great with about half a tank of fuel or less. (20 gallon tank) If the tank was full, as I hauled it I could feel "Tongue Lift" at the rear of my truck with just about every bump in the road. In my opinion, with the engine AND most of the fuel tank behind the axle, I decided to move the bow stop post forward 6" to move more weight to the front or more on the axle. It worked.
Funny how just a little redistribution of where the boat sits on the trailer can make such a difference.
NCkenner LIKED above postBuckeyeCrappie thanked you for this post
Thanks GPB.
Why do some trailers have bunks with the boards laying flat and some laying standing up....did that make sense... face up or side up? Which way is stronger.
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I think it’s boat model and hull configuration layout (angles etc).
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heavenornot.netTheGrandPoohBah LIKED above post
Side up is stronger. Just like an I-beam but without the top and bottom cords. Most bunks are faced up/down though because they have multiple connection points to the trailer and the boat itself is rigid so the load goes straight from the boat to the bunk and the support points and into the trailer. The bunk itself in the midspans is just really supporting the boat while it's being loaded and unloaded. It also helps the boat sit lower on the trailer which is usually beneficial. The bunks turned up on their side are more common on jon boat trailers where the trailer only has a couple of mounting points for the bunks and if the bunk is cantilevered off of the rear support a good ways. I think a lot are cantilevered like that because jon trailers are more universal and made to fit many different length of hulls while most larger boats have semi to fully custom matching trailers.
If you extend them back a little ways based on the boat being longer you could add some sort of angle to the underside of the bunk or maybe fab up some type of gusset or strut from the bunk end to the bottom of the trailer cross member. I'd probably extend it without any other modifications and then see if it deflects any when you put the new boat on. No noticeable movement you could leave as is. If there is some you explore adding supports. Although extending the tongue may be be practical solution as it helps you keep the boat balanced on the axle.
catchNgrease LIKED above post
Scout-jm
Thanks for that. My trailer only has two contact points. I did stand the boards up. I also added two more bunks. Do you see it being a problem not adding carpet and putting the boat on the bare wood? The wood is not treat.
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A brand new aluminum boat. Will it hurt the aluminum?
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It want slide good on just the wood ! And the wood will splinter up pretty quick if not covered !
Also it will scratch/scar up the bottom of the boat !