Thread: Gone and Messed up...

I would be inclined to try the JB WELD repair and put the 100 clams towards the replacement part. If the weld holds good that would be a + and buying the replacement part would assure you a replacement part in the future as parts are getting scarce. JMHO

Kind of my thoughts also...

If you are leaning towards trying the JB Weld...
For this job, it's gotta be JB Marine Weld. I'll leave an Amazon link to it below to show the exact one. All are not the same. Note the bond strength of 5020 psi, no other comes close. When applied and left to set, allow no less than 24 hours. It is NOT fast set. The fast set is much, much less in strength. For your job, I recommend at least 2 packages to insure you have enough.
Wash and clean the work area all around the break., including the broke off piece. When clean, wash it again with Dawn Dishwashing liquid , water, and clean away any chemicals. I recommend a wire wheel of a bench grinder for the broke off piece, dress the broke off edge flat on of the piece, then both sides of the break for at least an inch or a little more back on both sides to give the JB Weld a good bite on it. Then address the break on the lower unit head on to the break, and on both sides at least an inch for the JB Weld. A Dremel tool with a small wire wheel is ideal here, or perhaps a wire brush, or coarse grit sand paper. That paint is tougher than you think, and needs more than fine surface scratches. Get tough with it. This will be the one of the "Majors" that will decide if this works or not, along with proper alignment!
Be sure the broke off piece is flat and fits well. If not, consider a good hammer and anvil, or similar to persuade it. Consider a paint stir stick attached with a couple of clothes pins as a "Rest" under the broke off piece to hold it in place for the epoxy repair. When you are happy with the alignment of the two pieces and the "Rest" to hold it, Lift out the broke piece, mix some JB Weld 50/50, and apply it only to the broke edge of the piece in it's entirety (AKA "The Buttered Joint"), put the piece back on the rest and slide them together.
You will need some "Plastic Spreaders" of different sizes. An old credit card or expired gift card works great. Smooth the joint somewhat on each side while still moldable. This is only the beginning, just smooth out the high spots. Double check the alignment. You can move it a little for the first 5 minutes or so, but after that allow to cure AT LEAST 24 hours.
Second coat, next day - lightly sand both sides, clean, mix and apply more JB Weld. SPREAD IT SMOOTH. Apply small gobs here and there, spread with your plastic "Spreaders". Just do one side now, top or bottom. A little thicker over the broke areas, taper down a little into the wire wheel etched areas that extend an inch or so from it. It is not perfectly flat, there is a small tapered hump there, this gives it strength and allows the water to smoothly go over it without obstruction, not much of a hump, but only you will know. Smooth over everything you did before it fully dries, now allow another 24 hours to cure.
Next day, same on the other side, and include edges where they connect if needed. Smooth all you can with the spreaders before it sets, that stuff sets really hard! Look it over good to see if you need to spread a little here and there to smooth out anything. Allow to cure.
Next day, check your work. Should not look messy like a dirt dobber nest. Sand well, wipe off, spray paint with the closest match you can find.
This worked wonders for me. You might even remove your lower unit to do this work easier on a bench, and change your water pump while you are right there at it. I also preferred this way rather that expose all those lower seals to the heat of the other ways of doing the repairs.
https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8272...1512425&sr=8-5

Originally Posted by TheGrandPoohBah

If you are leaning towards trying the JB Weld...
For this job, it's gotta be JB Marine Weld. I'll leave an Amazon link to it below to show the exact one. All are not the same. Note the bond strength of 5020 psi, no other comes close. When applied and left to set, allow no less than 24 hours. It is NOT fast set. The fast set is much, much less in strength. For your job, I recommend at least 2 packages to insure you have enough.
Wash and clean the work area all around the break., including the broke off piece. When clean, wash it again with Dawn Dishwashing liquid , water, and clean away any chemicals. I recommend a wire wheel of a bench grinder for the broke off piece, dress the broke off edge flat on of the piece, then both sides of the break for at least an inch or a little more back on both sides to give the JB Weld a good bite on it. Then address the break on the lower unit head on to the break, and on both sides at least an inch for the JB Weld. A Dremel tool with a small wire wheel is ideal here, or perhaps a wire brush, or coarse grit sand paper. That paint is tougher than you think, and needs more than fine surface scratches. Get tough with it. This will be the one of the "Majors" that will decide if this works or not, along with proper alignment!
Be sure the broke off piece is flat and fits well. If not, consider a good hammer and anvil, or similar to persuade it. Consider a paint stir stick attached with a couple of clothes pins as a "Rest" under the broke off piece to hold it in place for the epoxy repair. When you are happy with the alignment of the two pieces and the "Rest" to hold it, Lift out the broke piece, mix some JB Weld 50/50, and apply it only to the broke edge of the piece in it's entirety (AKA "The Buttered Joint"), put the piece back on the rest and slide them together.
You will need some "Plastic Spreaders" of different sizes. An old credit card or expired gift card works great. Smooth the joint somewhat on each side while still moldable. This is only the beginning, just smooth out the high spots. Double check the alignment. You can move it a little for the first 5 minutes or so, but after that allow to cure AT LEAST 24 hours.
Second coat, next day - lightly sand both sides, clean, mix and apply more JB Weld. SPREAD IT SMOOTH. Apply small gobs here and there, spread with your plastic "Spreaders". Just do one side now, top or bottom. A little thicker over the broke areas, taper down a little into the wire wheel etched areas that extend an inch or so from it. It is not perfectly flat, there is a small tapered hump there, this gives it strength and allows the water to smoothly go over it without obstruction, not much of a hump, but only you will know. Smooth over everything you did before it fully dries, now allow another 24 hours to cure.
Next day, same on the other side, and include edges where they connect if needed. Smooth all you can with the spreaders before it sets, that stuff sets really hard! Look it over good to see if you need to spread a little here and there to smooth out anything. Allow to cure.
Next day, check your work. Should not look messy like a dirt dobber nest. Sand well, wipe off, spray paint with the closest match you can find.
This worked wonders for me. You might even remove your lower unit to do this work easier on a bench, and change your water pump while you are right there at it. I also preferred this way rather that expose all those lower seals to the heat of the other ways of doing the repairs.
Amazon.com

Lots of great information right there. I want to thank you for taking the time to do the explanation for sure. Definitely going to wait till I see the DR. and find out what the game plan is on my knee first. Mean while find this J.B. Marine weld and at least have it on hand so when I get the all clear from him, I can get this done...Thank you again.

More than happy to help.
If you were a little closer I would be glad to come over and help you with it - that's what retired folks do!
My Brother still has my late Dad's 1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18 HP, and we are very near and dear to that old motor. Dad really took a chewin' from Mother for spending so much for it (In 1957 dollars), but it's been a goodun'!!
Best wishes on the knee, my friend.

Originally Posted by TheGrandPoohBah

More than happy to help.
If you were a little closer I would be glad to come over and help you with it - that's what retired folks do!
My Brother still has my late Dad's 1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18 HP, and we are very near and dear to that old motor. Dad really took a chewin' from Mother for spending so much for it (In 1957 dollars), but it's been a goodun'!!
Best wishes on the knee, my friend.

I thank you so much. I appreciate the offer for the help all the same. I recon since my boat mechanic retired, I am going to learn an awful lot more about this ole motor. When he told me there was an electric start "kit" that was an option on this motor, I was ecstatic. I found one, used parts, of coarse and getting this thing started has become so much easier. I did install it. Again, Thank you.

I agree on that

Originally Posted by "G"

I would have thought that would be cast aluminum and could be welded,

Originally Posted by Jamesdean

I thank you so much. I appreciate the offer for the help all the same. I recon since my boat mechanic retired, I am going to learn an awful lot more about this ole motor. When he told me there was an electric start "kit" that was an option on this motor, I was ecstatic. I found one, used parts, of coarse and getting this thing started has become so much easier. I did install it. Again, Thank you.

I'll tell Brother about the Electric Start Kit for the Fastwin, that might make His day!