Thread: Testing overheat alarm circuit

Yes, although I did not see a horseshoe connector that you were referring to not exactly sure what that is. I disconnected the four wire vro connector, unplugged the black and brown harness at motor that went to oil tank. Only thing that I have done different is when I removed the oil tank I disconnected the oil line at the primer bulb and ran a long bolt and clamped it off in the bilge area. I tried pulling the oil line out of the sleeve that holds the engine harness and throttle cables but I was not successful so I left the oil line in place. After doing these things is when I noticed my issue regarding the temperature horn going off as soon as I started the engine. I just knew something was odd because the engine had no time to heat up before the horn went off to even be over heated. After disconnecting everything that's when I noticed that the low oil, no oil, and temp light were staying on. When I ground the engine side of the temperature switch no horn sounds but as soon as the engine is started the horn goes off. The temperature light is always on so that means that according to the system check it's already alarm I guess.

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Is there any way that I could connect the temperature sensor directly to the horn? If I'm bypassing the vro that's really the only warning I need. For example turning on the key would not have any sound but if the engine were to overheat and the temperature sensor grounded itself it would make the alarm go off?

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Did you unplug temp. Sensor with motor running?

Yes, on each side of the block. when motor first starts up the horn sounds off for 20-30 seconds and then stops. I did this with sensors with connected also and it made no difference. I stumbled upon something about a blocking diode possibly being a culprit so I'm reading about that right now

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last night I did some research and found out that if I unplug the 8-pin connector at the tack and jump wires 6 and 8 I was able to ground the temperature sensor and make the horn beep. I know this is not a fix but it was a troubleshooting method and I do not plan to leave it like this. Based on that test would you say that the check system tack could be faulty. And if so is there any other route I can take to have the tack work as well as the horn. I will not be using the vro if at all possible except for the fuel pumps side

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Don't have manual with me, I'm thinking the monitor gauge is bad. I've only seen 1 that was on a Suzuki.
Let me look tomorrow.

If you are referring to the module portion of the tachometer then that's what I'm thinking too. The boat sat outside in the elements for several years and I'm thinking that there is a corrosion issue that's causing the terminals to possibly ground inside the unit.

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Turned out to be the system check on the tach. Replaced with a new faria tach today and no more lights after system check

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