Thread: Trolling Motor Pwer Wire Size

I have a 45lb thrust Minn Kota trolling motor I picked up off marketplace, and someone cut the power supply wire to fit their needs and installed battery clamps on it. It's only about a foot to a foot and a half long. Anyone know what wire gauge it should be so I can extend it to get to my battery. It will be about 4ft from the connectin..thank you in advance.

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It should be about as thick as the original 1.5ft thats protruding from the motor. For a 45lb I'd say 8 gauge is sufficient. Might even be ok with 10. Dont forget the fuse! or breaker.

Thanks Baitwaster. But in my sleep depraved mind I said it was a minn kota, it's a motor guide...here's what I got.

Originally Posted by Baitwaster

It should be about as thick as the original 1.5ft thats protruding from the motor. For a 45lb I'd say 8 gauge is sufficient. Might even be ok with 10. Dont forget the fuse! or breaker.

Bee in shed as I've been working on boat for a bit...need to clean contacts under shoe foot to one at a time. I did make sure it all worked before purchase...

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Originally Posted by Jamesdean

Thanks Baitwaster. But in my sleep depraved mind I said it was a minn kota, it's a motor guide...here's what I got.Bee in shed as I've been working on boat for a bit...need to clean contacts under shoe foot to one at a time. I did make sure it all worked before purchase..

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Copper Dont Care! you'll be good either way. The chart Artcarney posted shows even 10g wire would be ok. One thing to consider, the older TM's used more power for less lbs. But looks like your model is wired with 10g anyway which is cheaper and easier to work with.
Artcarney was right too, if your comfortable replacing the wire its better than splicing. Either way make sure your crimps are good and it you splice do everything you can to keep it dry (with in reason).
Dont forget the fuse!

Thank you for all the responses guys. I apologize for not replying, but you all know how life is, throwing curve balls at us all the time when your expecting a fast ball...Wife was supposed to be home for a couple days then back out, then her team driver decides they can't handle the time away from home...and quit. So now my better half is looking for somewhere to drive, ( truck driver) thinks she may have found someplace but wont know for a day or so...
Yes it's a motor Guide, and I think I'll be running 6 AWG just to make sure there is no over powering on the wiring. I am running all wires through electrical conduit so there (hopefully) will be no chaffing. Also thank you for the reminder on the breaker/Fuse...On the connections at the ends, I had planned on soldering instead of crimping and then heat shrink over them, using brass connectors. Yes more time consuming, but a better connection. Looking to order some tinned marine grade wire so it should help if one of the heat shrinks fails and goes un-noticed for a bit. Am still waiting to get a break from moms honey do list while she's home so I can get back onto the boat...hahaha...

If I were doing this, I would replace the old short wires with the longer wires of the same gauge. You can use heat shrink to cover the wires for protection.

Originally Posted by JUS1MO

If I were doing this, I would replace the old short wires with the longer wires of the same gauge. You can use heat shrink to cover the wires for protection.

Definitely! With those alligator clamps and the exposed copper, I bet corrosion extends a pretty good ways up under the insulation. If the plan is to disassemble the foot pedal anyways to clean the contacts, might as well put new main lead wire on.

Helpful chart from Minn Kota:

Personally, I would order a new power wire from Motor Guide. Easy to install and no worries or splice connections corroding and shorting out.

How far away from TM is your battery ?

Originally Posted by "G"

How far away from TM is your battery ?

G, It will be about 3' in a straight line, but will be about 5'-6' running it through the conduit to help keep abrasion away from the wires.