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Thread: Crosby sled

  1. #11
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    The title I have for my boat says it's a 1967 but looks nothing like anything I have found in that era. It looks more like a picture I saw that was a 1980 and it looks as if it never had the cable steering that boats had during that time. The capacity plate says crosby aeromarine in Marianna FL. But I read that the facility burned in 1967 and was moved to Panama city. So that part doesn't make sence to me. The hull ID is missing to so I cant match it up. I just wonder if the previous owner had it registered that way for some reason.

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  2. #12
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    I think I have talked myself in to doing away with the original fiberglass floor and gonna use 1/2 inch plywood and glass it to the sides to make it watertight and add foam via holes drilled through the floor. I believe this would work better to secure the seat bases for my stick steering setup. I just have to figure out how I am going to get the wood to take the curve as the floor turns up to the bow. One more question, this may have been asked a hundred times but with a trihull boat if you have a leak below the deck and it is in one of the channels to the left or right of the center how could you get the water out without having a drain plug per section of the hull.

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  3. #13
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    These are the pictures I am referring to. It's the closest thing I have found to my boat only mine does not have the side console anymore. The previous owner had it set up for stick steer.Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1375199188.207775001.jpg
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Size:  62.1 KBName:  boat22-1001.jpg
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Size:  11.6 KBName:  boat11001.jpg
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Size:  11.8 KB

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  4. #14
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    I used 1/2 inch plywood. I drilled about 2 inch holes with a holesaw in each chamber of the hull. I drilled them about every 3 feet. I tilted the boat nose up so the foam would run to the back. Measure foam parts, mix and dump, allow the foam to expand and start to set before i made another pour. . I had tabbed the plywood to the hull around the edges, poured all the foam, put wood plugs back in the hole, fiber glassed them in and layed in a thick layer of fiber glass cloth, built it up and was ready to go. It was an awesome little fishing boat. 25 hp would zip you along nicely. Set up with stick steering would be even better.
    The love for fishing is one of the best gifts you can pass along

  5. #15
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    The model I have is rated for 65hp. And had a 50 on it when I got it. So I imagine its gonna be crazy fast as long as I can keep the weight down.

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  6. #16
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    Great project and those old tri hulls ride real good.

  7. #17
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    I do like the looks of it. A 50 hp motor on that front drive stick steer would be pretty quick.
    Do you know the year model?
    The love for fishing is one of the best gifts you can pass along

  8. #18
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    I do not. The title to it states 1967 but looks nothing like any pictures I have found during that time frame. Closest thing I have found is a 1980 model. The hull ID plate is missing at the bow eye and the capacity plate says it was manufactured in Marianna FL. I read that the facility burned in late 1967 and was relocated to Panama City Florida. So to be honest I have no idea what I truly have. It doesn't have the cable steering like boats from that era and I cant find where those holes would have been repaired either. I believe it was a side console at one time but was changed to stick steer by the PO.

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  9. #19
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    My dad had 2 when I was growing up. Both console steer. Of the three I have been around none of them look like the one you have. It looks like a great fishing boat
    The love for fishing is one of the best gifts you can pass along

  10. #20
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    skeetbum is offline Crappie.com Legend - Moderator Jig Tying Forum * Crappie.com Supporter
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    If you get a refrigerator box and lay it in the boat where the plywood is going to curve up in the nose. Cut a couple of straight cuts and overlap say the outside sections over the middle section and see how much needs to be cut off to lay flat. Make those cuts and you have the template for the plywood. As I said earlier, make all your cuts, drill all holes, and then pretreat with the resin/acetone mix. Makes the wood really tough. If you can figure out a way to make the holes you’ll foam through have 45* sides, the plugs you put back in will be stronger. I tend to overbuild but also seldom have to revisit my work for repairs. Also, use plenty of resin and remove all the air bubbles you can, makes it stronger and holds less water. Might not hurt to glass in a piece of 3/4 ply where the seats will be, 45* on the edges to remove the hard edge. Easy while in this stage and the seats will have a stronger base than just 1/2”. Just some ideas that ran through my head while I read.
    Last edited by skeetbum; 12-23-2019 at 09:10 PM.
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