With our without a transom saver you still need to strap down your motor. Don't think you always need a saver but I do think you always need to strap the motor down.
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With our without a transom saver you still need to strap down your motor. Don't think you always need a saver but I do think you always need to strap the motor down.
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"G", SpeckledSlab LIKED above post
Although that size motor is not likely to weaken the transom to any noticeable point, I've seen countless motors that date back to the 70s and 80s that were trailered that way. The transoms in the boat may not have suffered but the motor mounts on the little motors do. The transom saver locks everything down and protects more than just the transom. But it's ultimatley what the owner is comfortable with. There's a lot of factors at play when trailering a boat down the road.
I'd rather be fishing.
Thanks for all the input. This outboard has power tilt, so I don't think I would need to strap the motor down...unless you are referring to side to side motion since it's a tiller steer. To take care of that I fully engage the steering tension lever, and that has prevented any side-to-side motion on trips so far. On a very long trip I could use a ratchet strap to prevent the side-to-side motion and relieve the pressure on the tension system I suppose.
As for the ruggedness of the transom on my aluminum boat, this is an Alweld brand boat manufactured in Arkansas. It's a completely welded boat, and the transom is designed and braced for use with a 250lb surface drive if wanted, so I don't think my 160lb will put too much stress on it.
Thanks again.
OK , I will ask the dumb question . What advantage is there to not use a transom saver ?
The boat and trailer move in different directions. Your placing stress on the motor lower unit. It wasn't designed for this stress. The transom was designed for streeses placed on it from the motor, even on the highway and back roads to and from the ramp.
As to the original question, 10" is plenty of clearance for the road. It's the steep entrances and exits to businesses you have to be careful about and that depends on the distance from the trailer tires to the skeg.
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I'm going to have to strongly disagree. The boat and trailer should be static and move as one if the boat is properly secured to the trailer. I do see a lot of rigs that aren't properly matched or secured that do flex in ways they shouldn't. But the lower unit is not the part at risk. It is to some degree engineered to withstand impacts with under water objects. Being fitted up to a transom saver is nothing. The stress point at risk is the pivot tube and the motor mounts. Both of which were designed on the drawing table to withstand the stresses of the engine's output. The larger and more powerful engines have stronger motor mounts and transom brackets. Specific to small engines of say 10hp, the motor mounts are wimpy. If the engine is allowed to flop around as it travels down the road, the transom will flex very little if it's not weakened or fatigued by rot or damage. But the motor mounts will continue to flex until their fatigue point is reached. At which time they will give way. If you've ever seen a small outboard that you could flop the powerhead around on without the transom bracket ever moving, you were looking at one with failed motor mounts.
As I stated earlier, ultimately it's the decision of the owner to care for his equipment in the way he/she believes is right. Because they will be the one paying the repair bill or replacing their equipment.
I'd rather be fishing.
Have to agree with sliderman
I have spent most my life fishing........the rest I wasted.
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How much is it going to cost for a transom saver? Cheap insurance is my comment!
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