Thread: jb weld /silicone

We've used Knead-it & JB Weld to fill holes in an aluminum boat where the rivets came loose & leaked. We knocked the rivets out and filled the holes and they held for a long time before the holes in the boat were welded closed. Also used a bolt/nut/washer/silicone as an emergency patch for a rivet that came loose while we were on a fishing trip & didn't have any Knead-it or JB Weld handy.

Either one will work as a temporary fix ... but, if bolt/nut are used, be sure it's not where the boat bottom comes in contact with the trailer skids/carpet.

I would guess the screw and marine silicone.

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My vote would be for the screw with 3M 5200 sealant. Even better, a closed end aluminum pop rivet with 5200.

My boat has 4 places where a 00 bucksbot pellet went through it in the year 2000. I plugged them with JB at that time and the repairs are just as they were the day they were made. They've never leaked a drop (as far as I know).

Originally Posted by shadboy

My boat has 4 places where a 00 bucksbot pellet went through it in the year 2000. I plugged them with JB at that time and the repairs are just as they were the day they were made. They've never leaked a drop (as far as I know).

What were you running from when they hit? Just kidding , but there's got to be a good story behind the buck shot.

I wore a hole about a inch long and half inch wide next to the side of a rib thru the hull due to a bunk bracket coming loose and sticking up and rubbing it. Mixed JB Marine weld and sealed it inside and out on the bottom over 2 yrs ago and still holds. Sanded the outside bottom of the JB Weld down and painted it and boat rides on bunks when transported next to that spot also and it holds perfect and takes a beating going down the road. I have used JB Weld on screw holes as silicone won’t last forever like JB Weld will. Get the marine version as it’s the strongest in PSI strength if you decide to use it.

These are all holes drilled to mount various transducers . there were 6 small screw holes with screws covered with silicone . It was impossible to mount flush due to screw heads . I ended up using a grinder with brush to remove all paint and old silicone , cleaned with a degreaser , used JBwater weld , sanded down smooth and painted . Was really wondering if any had used this product . I used regular jb weld to do the same to a boat many years ago , with no problems . I will take to shop and get welded if IT does not hold . checked this morning and it is hard as a brick .

I had a feeling you were referring to old holes from transducers.

I've run in to this on brand new boats when the dealer installas a transducer for a fish finder that no one wants.

I utilize starboard for all of my transducers. One reason is because I can remove them, re position them, or replace them without putting new holes in the boat. The primary reason however is to get a quality seal over old screw holes and hide them from being so ugly!

I take the old location, clean it, utilize a stainless screw and silicone. I then mark the starboard (on the backside) where the screw head would be located. I recess out this area with a forsner bit. Inside this recess, I fill it with silicone. Before putting the starboard on, I always ensure to put a generous amount on the backside of the starboard (about 1 inch from the edge). I affix my starboard with screws! Now you have installed sealed screws in the old holes, filled a recess with more sealent, then sealed the board overtop of it. Just another way to get it done.

For me, I use starboard that runs from the bottom of the boat to the top of the transom. When I put my stainless screws in to hold the board in place, none of them are below the waterline. Some guys use the really small boards. Nothing wrong with them, just that you will have two screws to deal with below the waterline to ensure you have sealed correctly.