https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zlxIyOa_DkA
This is checking stator. Several other videos on checkin staters and rectifiers. Some are on motorcycles but they are pretty much same as outboard.
How can the magneto / Generator be checked to find if they are good or bad - other than just buying all new stuff in the charging system The motor was built in 2003 . When I bought the boat and motor 11 years ago it took a couple of years to find that this motor does not produce any voltage when running. I replaced the Rectifier but there is no voltage coming to it.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zlxIyOa_DkA
This is checking stator. Several other videos on checkin staters and rectifiers. Some are on motorcycles but they are pretty much same as outboard.
Proud Member of Team Geezer
Charlie Weaver USN/ENC 1965-1979
I am going to have to pull the fly wheel -- I used a meter to test leads into alternator . the Yellow and white going to the Rectifier checked good but no voltage there. there are only three wired that go to ECI unit -- Red - Blue - black . Red to blue check good with the meter ... All the U-Tube show 4 wires which mine does not have .. I downloaded the Parts manual, it does not help unless I find the problem... The book shows an Exciter coil / and Alternator coil that looks to be about an Inch long
Since he hasn't been on here send Sliderman a PM. If he gets it I bet he can tell you what you need to know more than me. He is a very knowledgable outboard mechanic.
The blue / red / black leads are part of the ignition system voltage output and triggering system. The yellow ones leading to the rectifier are involved in charging the battery.
Before I get long winded in looking at the system, how did you get to the point that you are checking for output?
I'd rather be fishing.
The motor runs good with no issue there --- The battery will not charge -- two wires go to the terminal block are yellow, and white and go to the rectifier. Using the meter the leads are not grounded, Just a little over an Ohm resistance, I do not remember exactly what . but it is about the same as all the U-Tube say it should be. I could squeeze the probe into the yellow connector and with the motor running there is no voltage to ground --- the other probe into the white and still no voltage going to rectifiers. The only thing I believe is the winding is shorted giving the low reading.. The motor was built in 2003 and was 4 years old when I purchased the boat and it has never worked as long as I have had it. just tired of only being able to crank up several times to only get stranded --- Old issue that has got too old -- none of the shops around here want to work on the japanese motor
With motor in the water or hooked to muffs, test battery voltage. Then start motor, allow to warm up, then bring idle speed up. Don't race engine, just bring the idle speed up. Retest battery voltage at the battery while engine is running. Report back with your findings if you haven't already performed this test.
I'd rather be fishing.
Not to insult your intelligence but when testing input to the rectifier make sure your meter is set for AC volts.
Fair Winds and Following Seas
Bill H. PTC USN Ret
Chesapeake, Va
That's what I'm trying to determine. If battery voltage increases while running, the problem is elsewhere. If the meter hasn't been set properly, his tests results are of no use.
I'd rather be fishing.
Ok guys,,, First it is never an Intelligence thing --- It is how one gets to the Truth --- When I posted last night it dawned on me the meter was not set to AC --- I went out with Pencil and paper to get exactly my findings ..... Battery before crank was 12.82 VDC --- The meter I am using ia a Fluke 83 -- Testing Ohms through the Coil is .5 Ohms which is low .... At Idle with the Engine warm the voltage from the coil [ yellow to white] is 8.5 VAC going to the Rectifier with it plugged in.. With the engine RPM at mid range, the voltage increased to 12.5 VAC --- testing from the white to ground is 6 VAC.... Testing the voltage to the battery with the RPM up is now at 13.2 VDC --- Which I guess it is putting out something. The AC voltage is not up to Snuff