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Thread: Tubing, T-Track or bases everywhere for rod holders and accessories?

  1. #21
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    Update:
    I tried to thin the backside with my stacked dado blade set. That was a bust! The two chippers only had two teeth and caused the t-slot to bounce like mad and got really hot. Swapped out the dado set for my 60 tooth carbide tipped blade, smooth as butter. Just took about 6 passes to clean out a 1/2" channel 1/8" deep.

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    Time to bend metal. I have a vent-less heater in the garage. Works well enough to melt the snow and ice off the vehicles, even on the coldest days. Figured it would heat up the rails and left them to soak while I was making my bending template. The rails got hot enough I had to wear gloves to handle them.

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    Bending template.

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    It wasn't easy to bend the rails, even after I thinned out the backside. But they are solid. I drew a line on the template to ensure I had the angle. Line is barely visible in the bottom pic, at the bottom of the template.

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    Managed to get one rail installed today.

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  2. #22
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    tlefire is offline Crappie.com Legend * Crappie.com Supporter
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    NICE JOB....... Do the tee nuts still slide easy after you bent it?

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlefire View Post
    NICE JOB....... Do the tee nuts still slide easy after you bent it?
    Yes!
    Thanks!

    Wilbur, I'll take those extra T-Nuts if you still want to get ride of them. Bring them to Crappie Camp.
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  4. #24
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    Looks good and it is nice and heavy. Did you just use the wood jig and hand pressure to bend the 80/20 or did you use something else?

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by flintcreek View Post
    Looks good and it is nice and heavy. Did you just use the wood jig and hand pressure to bend the 80/20 or did you use something else?
    I put the wood fixture on my WorkMate table, pushed the table up to my boat and held it in place with my right foot. Put my right hand on the fixture, grabbed the t-track with my left and pulled, pulled, and pulled. The aluminum will spring back, keep pulling a little further each time until you reach the angle. I used one wood block seen in the pictures so the bend would be consistent. I had another wood block, however it wasn't needed. The bend did end up kind of blocky, but not too bad. A few more blocks (bend points) would smooth out the blockyness. (if that is a word)

    There is a 4th red stop block that you can't see in the pictures. The 4th red stop is at the top left corner, it takes all the cranking force on the opposite corner. The three red stops that are visible take the load pulling towards me.
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  6. #26
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    You got em Buddy. They are 1/4" I believe.



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  7. #27
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    Great posts and great ideas. Thanks guys! I can see my 16/48 looking like a Swiss Army knife now!!
    Come on in boys! The water is fine!
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  8. #28
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    Looks good.
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  9. #29
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    Just an idea but you might want to consider adding a slot somewhere in the middle of the unit inorder to slide in new t bolts.

    Doing this allows you to add other devices on your rail without the need to remove all the other stuff to get it in the correct order.
    Traxstech is starting to do this on all of their new rails over 4 foot and it is a huge improvement over solid rail.

    Just an idea
    I have OCD "Obsessive Crappie Disorder"

  10. #30
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    I looked at adding additional access points and would like one about half way between each rail. That would give me access about every 3'. However, I don't have a tool to drill that hole, about 3/4" diameter. I will have access at both ends and in the middle, about every 6'.


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