Thread: Enthanol?

You are correct Tracker. And your mention of it's non-use in the field of aviation should speak volumes to those that are of the opinion that stabilizers and other snake oil remedies are all that's needed to avoid issue.

I tell folks the ethanol blend is ok for late model vehicles that are daily drivers. But 'boy toys' such as outboards, atv, utv, weed eaters, chain saws, tillers, etc. that are used sporadically and often sit for long periods will succumb to issues directly related to the ethanol.

A couple of answers to questions that invariably get asked.

Yes, you can test your fuel to see if ethanol is present. A drop of water based food coloring in a sample jar of fuel is all that is needed. Swirl the fuel after adding the food coloring. If the droplet re-collects at the bottom of the mixture with NO color phasing of the fuel, it's E-free. If the fuel sample near instantly color phases as it is swirled, ethanol is present. The color of food coloring does not effect the test BUT it can be confusing to those not familiar with mixing colors. (If I'm sampling a yellow tinted ethanol fuel with blue food coloring, I expect the sample to flash green, not blue.) A little knowledge of color mixing comes in handy also when testing premixed fuels.

Yes, the first thing everyone should do when experiencing engine trouble is take a sample of fuel from the end of the fuel line. Place it in a quart size glass jar (pickle jar) to 3/4 full. It should be transparent with no cloudiness or stratification. The cloudiness is the water being carried throughout the column by the ethanol. Stratification indicates that phase separation has already occurred.

No, don't treat E-free fuel with stabilizer. Most on the market contain propanol (another member of the alcohol family). The few that don't use it contain high levels of naphtha. Naphtha was used for many years in the production of rubber and can make the older seals turn to a jelly like substance that renders the seals useless.

Yes, the manufacturers are very aware of what ethanol will do to their engines and are lobbying against the E15 mandate that the EPA has implemented. They have also joined the automakers in filing suit against the EPA. And yes, they have already stated that the use of ethanol blended fuels in excess of 10% will void warranty.

No, you would be hard pressed to cover up the use of E15 in your engine if you have a failure.

No, simply adding more fuel or stabilizer will not correct the issue of having bad fuel.

No, your fuel line was not made to last forever and despite the fact it is labeled as "ethanol resistant", ethanol is what degraded it. (Life expectancy of fuel lines is dependent on a number of factors but as a general rule, it will probably begin to stiffen between 3-5yrs. It should be replaced when the stiffness is noted.) [Very important for those using the gray lines]

And last but not least. Yes sir, you will be charged again for cleaning the carb and purging the fuel system on your engine. This could have been avoided if you would have cleaned your fuel tank as stated on your receipt.

Thanks ! good read, good info.

Man this stuff is bad. Just cant figure out why crappie masters support it on television. CRAZY!

The problem is the fact that we really have limited choice in the matter. Places to buy "E-free" fuel are harder and harder to find. That being said, in Michigan, 10% E has been added to fuel ever since they got rid of leaded gasoline. There has always been issues here in regards to fuel sitting and causing water issues. The "snake oil" companies want you to purchase their products but the issues is that you cannot get ride of the water. Yes, you can treat the fuel so it doesn't go bad, and lubricate the engine and help clean the injection/carburation while running, but... you simply cannot get rid of it. Best practices and preventative maintenance are the only thing we really can do.



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Originally Posted by wicklundrh

The problem is the fact that we really have limited choice in the matter. Places to buy "E-free" fuel are harder and harder to find. That being said, in Michigan, 10% E has been added to fuel ever since they got rid of leaded gasoline. There has always been issues here in regards to fuel sitting and causing water issues. The "snake oil" companies want you to purchase their products but the issues is that you cannot get ride of the water. Yes, you can treat the fuel so it doesn't go bad, and lubricate the engine and help clean the injection/carburation while running, but... you simply cannot get rid of it. Best practices and preventative maintenance are the only thing we really can do.



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A water separator /filter does a great job but like most things you get what you pay for. The ones Wallyworld sells are cheap but better than nothing.

Originally Posted by Barnacle Bill

Other than empty your wallet quicker - nothing. High compression motors require it.

Yep, got a dirt bike that was rebuilt by a previous owner with a high compression cylinder. Took me forever to figure that out on my own. Running just 87 octane the thing would bog down when I gave it quick throttle even when fully warm, similar to most 4 stroke engines when they are really cold and have just been started. As soon as I put premium in it the throttle came to life and it became noticeably quicker.

To Sliderman:

I have read MANY discussion points on ethanol fuel, and yours by far is the best! Everything you say is true, and I can't say it better. Thanks for the info.