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Thread: Jackplate Set Up

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by KDAVID1 View Post
    that's right--dang near forgot your's is a fish and ski--so you can't trim down enough to get rid of the porpoising?
    I know that if you can get your pad to shaft up enough your fuel burn will be better. Typically the lower you put it--it's a better ride in rough water.
    can't figure out the porpoising at anything other than wot--kinda strange.
    Ask Goodime, its bad. Gonna play with it tomorrow, its not hard to adjust ifn the rangers will leave me alone while I do it.
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  2. #12
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    hahaha---they ought to leave you alone so you can get dialed in--I still haven't got mine where I want it

  3. #13
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    skeetbum is offline Crappie.com Legend - Moderator Jig Tying Forum * Crappie.com Supporter
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    I was told that the decavitation plate was to be 1 1/2" below the keel line. When I checked that was where it was so I didn't change it. Mine is a heavy hulled 18' bass boat.
    Creativity is just intelligence fooling around

  4. #14
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    Ya might want to ask this over on bassboatcentral on the setups board.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by huntinslabs View Post
    Ya might want to ask this over on bassboatcentral on the setups board.
    thats a good idea, still havent been to the lake but will in the next couple of days.
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  6. #16
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    Have you considered trim tabs? Also the 4 blade might have a lot of bow lift, this happened to me on a smaller rig, if you have another prop it may be worth trying it out.
    Eatin Ain't Cheatin

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shallow Runner View Post
    Have you considered trim tabs? Also the 4 blade might have a lot of bow lift, this happened to me on a smaller rig, if you have another prop it may be worth trying it out.
    Lowered the motor 1 1/2 inches and it helped the hole shot "some", once out of the hole still wants to porpois at 35 mph or so. At WOT it will get the boat out of the water as it should and handles the chop very well, ran it in some pretty good white caps and other than having to run it all out to keep the bounce down it did fine.
    Took the huge 4 blade off and put on a Quicksilver II with a 21 pitch. Have my doubts about the 21 being enuff but it should give me a hole shot and some numbers to work with. The Quicksilver was actually on the motor that came on this boat so it may just fit the bill. Also did some checking, my hull is HEAVY, like over 1500 pounds so a speed demon is out of the question. Gonna run it this afternoon and will report back.
    Thanks for the replys
    Last edited by Rees Guide; 05-18-2013 at 10:38 AM.
    1990 Stratos 285 Pro 200 HP Merc
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  8. #18
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    Hole shot is great but still wanting to porpoise in the mid range. RPMs way up won't lowering the motor drop them some? Running in ruff water so didn't really get any numbers other than Rachel maxxed out at 6000 and only running 48 or so
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  9. #19
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    You might want to look at installing some wedges between the transom and jackplate. This would allow you more trim angle in the down position.

  10. #20
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    That 21 pitch Laser it not going to be enough wheel and it won't have enough cup to carry the bow which might the problem you are having with the other four blade. What is the brand and model of the four blade prop? If you are running that prop at 5.5 or 6.5" below the pad that is way too deep. I would start at about 4" below and start moving up in 1/2" increments until one of two things happen A. you lose water pressure or B. you see RPMs increase but speed does not. Just because it is porpoising doesn't mean your prop is running too shallow it could be a number of things causing it. Load placement within the boat can affect it and so can a prop that doesn't have enough cupping to carry the nose of the boat. Also, the higher you run the motor on the jack plate the less positive trim you will need. Bass Boat Central is a good place to get advice from other's that have the same or similar boat.

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