Reply With QuoteGuess it depends on the market in your area. Personally I'd stay away from any 40 year old outboard.
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Crappie.com 1K Star General
Advice, help please
Is 550 for a 1972 25hp Evinrude with electric start and tiller handle a good price? I will be purchasing from an older guy who works on johnsons and evinrudes.
Any advice would be helpful, like what to look for etc.
Love, what more can I say
Crappie.com 2K Star General
Guess it depends on the market in your area. Personally I'd stay away from any 40 year old outboard.
Slabmaster II
$550 is a good price on a running, test riding, ready to go motor. take a 13/16 sparkplug socket and ratchet, a 13/16 wrench too, to check compression, and a big flathead screwdriver and hammer to check the lowing unit oil. see how easy it starts with the pull rope starter.
Crappie Wall Hanger II
I totally agree. IF the guy is a good mechanic and the lower unit has good seals and a good clutch dog and forward gear ears, has good compression, the carb has been cleaned, and has good coils then it is well worth $550. You can find one used for maybe less than that, but you will likely need new parts in the neighborhood of $150-$400 to get it reliable. Not counting labor to install them. If the guy has been through the motor and has it in good condition and will give you a boat test to see if it will hold gear in forward at wide open throttle, it's a great price. I would not want to pay that much without a water test, but if he has a good reputation it's probably earned.
That's a good motor and although its prop has a drive pin and it doesn't have shallow drive, it's still comparable in every other way to modern motors.
I would want the mechanic to show me the compression and would hope it would be around 120-125psi on both cylinders, no less than about 110psi (if the gauge is accurate). I would not buy it if the cylinders differ in more than 7or 8psi, or 10% of the total cylinder pressure. The motor will not idle low and smooth, and won't crank easy if the compression is bad---so if you can't get a compression test that's what I would look at. If the compression is good and the lower unit doesn't leak water, you will have a good motor most likely. You want to see nice clear oil and no water after a run in a bucket in the lower unit or I wouldn't pay that much.
JMO,
JBJ
Slabmaster II
i guess i could have mentioned to take a COMPRESSION GAUGE, lol. that bayoumonster is right, compression, compression, compression, i can't say it enough. you can spend a $1000 in parts on a LOW COMPRESSION outboard, and you will only have a $100 parts motor. ask alot of questions. what oil/fuel mixture has been run thur it? what kinda of oil? when was impellar(waterpump) last changed? is a thermostat in it? if not, why not? it came from evinrude with a thermostat in it. when has it been changed? if you go test it on a boat, let it idle in gear as low rpm as possible, for as long as possible. if it keeps dieing at idle, in gear, and getting harder to start, then thats a sign of LOW COMPRESSION. run it at WOT for at least a mile, let it come back down to idle in gear, put it in neutral, shut it off for 5 mins. while you got it shut down, pop the hood look for fuel leaks, l/u oil slick in the water. see how easy it starts back up. if it fires right up, without choking it, in less then 5 seconds, and idles low, thats great!!!!!! if it has a hard time starting, you gotta keep chokeing it, on and off, turning it over and over and over. here again, signs of LOW COMPRESSION. a good, well tuned outboard will fire right up and idle smooth and low, after getting up to a normal operating tempature, without chocking it. you may have to set the throttle to fast idle, before starting it, but thats it, no choke. if you gotta keep choking it, you are creating a vacuum, which is another sign of LOW COMPRESSION. you cannot have vacuum without pressure (COMPRESSION). take your time. i hope this helps. and i'm sure others will help you out. good luck, rick
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