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good job on the ignition!!!!!!!! that fuel connection is one of the first things i take off. i have had more problems with those connections then i care to discuss. you can take that connection out, and run the hose straight to the fuel pump. alot of people will disagree with me, but it dont hurt a thing. all it does by taking it out, is eliminating a possible fuel leak. just use a small hose clamp to keep the hose on the fuel pump nipple. and a couple of zip ties to hold the hose in place, away from hot spots, keeping the pressure off the nipple when steering. you can try this while running and tuning in a barrel, and pick up those o-rings later, if you decide to use that connection. if you decide not to use the connection and gonna being moving the motor around alot, boat to boat, boat to garage, ect., you can aways disconnect the hose from the fuel tank and tote it around with out the tank.
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I like the idea of removing the connection. I am a firm believer in KISS. That will be one less thing to give problems. i am going to look in my parts bins and see if I have a barb fitting to join both hoses together with clamps if not I will run it all way to the pump connection. It is looking like i have may have inherited this boat and motor. My father in law has decided to sell it. If I can get it running good I'll just buy it from him for what he has in it and use it myself.
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I really don't see any reason to take the connector off. The male ends never leak, and a female end can be had brand new from walmart or elsewhere. It is handy to be able to quickly disconnect it. (Just my opinion )Since someone asked, here's some pics of some of my favorites that I've restored. I've got others out in the shop and on boats that I use more regularly.
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Wow those are Some good looking motors Bayoumonster. They look like they are in brandnew in the dealership.
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IT RUNS!!! IT RUNS!!!! Thanks for all the help guys. I have been tied up with other projects and just got back to this motor. I got it fired up today. It ran a little ragged but atleast it is running. Now I don't mind doing all the other stuff it will need. New gearcase lube, rebuild carb, paint, new waterpump impeller,etc.
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THAT'S A GOOD DEAL!!!!!!!!! heres the carb kit you're gonna need Evinrude Johnson OMC 0439071 - Carburetor Repair Kit @ MarineEngine.com= i like to take the carb apart and soak it in napa carb/parts cleaner, usally a week to make sure it is clean, but MAYBE a couple days is fine. other things you might consider is replacing those 50 yr old gaskets. i just like to be sure everything is in good shape and cleaned out before i start relying on it. and im sure it'll last another 50 yrs. while replacing the head gasket, you get a chance to clean out all that old 30wt oil/carbon build up, carbon will ruin a good motor pretty quick when it starts coming off. clean and check the water passages, to make sure it can get ALL the needed water to keep it cool. the base gasket is another one i'll replace. dirt/debris will build up around the cold water inlet (on bottom of motor) and cut off water volume to motor. just because you can see water blowing out the tale, doesn't mean its going where it should to keep it cool. also you can check the seal that keeps the driveshaft splines from rusting up in the crankshaft, while you're replacing the impellar and/or base gasket. and don't forget that thermostat, its so important for that motor to run the way it was meant to. take care, rick
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Great looking old motors.
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