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Thread: can you only burn out the 24v side of a 12/24 trolling motor?

  1. #1
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    Default can you only burn out the 24v side of a 12/24 trolling motor?


    I've got a 1998 12/24v Motorguide Brute 56 that suddenly stopped working on 24V.
    The 12V works fine. I checked the switch with a voltmeter, and am getting power through to the motor.
    Is it possible for only the 24V part of the windings or brushes to go out and not affect the 12V operation?

  2. #2
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    Motorguide TM's use circut boards to control the voltage to the motor head, I have burnt one out the oposite way an old motorguide stuck on 24v high one night in a tournament on Herrington lake , after fighting it all night in the morning while my partner was weighing in I unbolted it and threw it in the water at Chimney Rock Marina (80) feet deep and I would never own another Motorguide because of the circut system they use. One thing to look for is check the wires where they turn and go down the tube from the top cover to the motor head to make sure you don't have a broken wire there if they are good it's usually a circut board.
    Tom

    "The reason I play Golf.....there are no broke down boats on a Golf Course"

  3. #3
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    That's what I was worried about. Thanks for the help. Looks like I'm limping on 12 volt until I can save enough for a replacement trolling motor.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Archerguy1 View Post
    Motorguide TM's use circuit boards to control the voltage to the motor head,

    The 12/24 models DO NOT use a circuit board. They use a DPDT switch that has jumpers across it.

    If your motor is working on 12 but not 24 it is either the 12/24 switch or the wiring between the batteries and the switch.

    From black to 1 lead (red or white) should be 12 volts and from black to the other lead should be 24 volts. If not the the jumper between your batteries is disconnected.

    Open the motor top up and check the voltage at the output terminal of the 12/24 switch. In 1 position it should be 12 and in the other position it should be 24.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MDCrappie View Post
    The 12/24 models DO NOT use a circuit board. They use a DPDT switch that has jumpers across it.

    If your motor is working on 12 but not 24 it is either the 12/24 switch or the wiring between the batteries and the switch.

    From black to 1 lead (red or white) should be 12 volts and from black to the other lead should be 24 volts. If not the the jumper between your batteries is disconnected.

    Open the motor top up and check the voltage at the output terminal of the 12/24 switch. In 1 position it should be 12 and in the other position it should be 24.
    That's funny I have sent a few back to motorguide and when they get returned the service ticket that has repace circut board on it and there is a circut board in a bag sent back with the trolling motor. Now this may be the case with current model TM's but the older Brute's and models along that line are the one's that have been sent back
    Tom

    "The reason I play Golf.....there are no broke down boats on a Golf Course"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Archerguy1 View Post
    That's funny I have sent a few back to motorguide and when they get returned the service ticket that has repace circut board on it and there is a circut board in a bag sent back with the trolling motor. Now this may be the case with current model TM's but the older Brute's and models along that line are the one's that have been sent back
    Tom - You must have had either a straight 12 or straight 24 volt motor. I've opened up plenty to know the only ones with a "circuit board" are the straight 12 or straight 24 volt motors. (Those with "infinite" adjustable speed) The 12/24 have "set" speeds (Usually 5 on each voltage)
    Look at the below link for one of the old (1996) "Brute" 12/24 motors. Notice the "3" battery leads. This how you get the 12 or 24.

    Trolling Motor Parts - Minnkota - Motor Guide - OMC


    Then look at the below link. It is for one of the old (1996) "Brute" 24 volt motors. Notice it has "2" battery leads. Straight 24 goes to this motor. Notice that instead of going in a "switch" (to change between 12 and 24) the leads go into a MOSFET. This MOSFET is what you are referring to as a "Circuit Board".

    Trolling Motor Parts - Minnkota - Motor Guide - OMC


    The original poster indicated that he has a 12/24 Brute, so if his motor is working on 12 volts I can assure him that he does not have a bad "Circuit Board".

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    Give John Jones at jonestrollingmotor.com a call. He's in Texarkana.

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    dowhatta - Since you have a voltmeter I sent you a PM on how to trouble shoot the motor. You're likely looking at an under $10 repair if you do it yourself.

    Good Luck and let us know.

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    OK, renewed hope!
    I'll check out the voltage again and get back to everyone. I really appreciate the help. New TMs are just too expensive not to exhaust all options before buying them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dowhatta View Post
    OK, renewed hope!
    I'll check out the voltage again and get back to everyone. I really appreciate the help. New TMs are just too expensive not to exhaust all options before buying them.
    If you find that the switch is the problem, you can switch the 2 leads coming from the batteries (the +'s) and then the motor will work only in 24v instead of 12v.

    In the below pic you want to reverse the "Battery Red" wire and the "Battery Red/White" wire.
    Name:  tm.jpg
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