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Thread: Some general questions.

  1. #11
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    Well the average guy can do about 2 things on an Etec, change the spark plugs or the water pump imellor, everything else on that motor reqiures an Evinrude dealer with the laptop and comunication cable to access the ECM , I have worked on them since the FICHT days that caused OMC to go down the drain and as good as they have become they still need that mechanic.
    Tom

    "The reason I play Golf.....there are no broke down boats on a Golf Course"

  2. #12
    skeetbum's Avatar
    skeetbum is offline Crappie.com Legend - Moderator Jig Tying Forum * Crappie.com Supporter
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    To check for rot I take a small hammer with a flat face or a pocket knife, and begin tapping around lightly on the transom beginning in the top outside corners. This is usually a solid area and you will hear a sharp sound when you tap. Moving in inches go towards the holes in the transom, motor bolts, transducers, drains for bilge and splashwell and listen for the taps to dull and sound spongy. Get my drift? Also, remove the transom saver, trim the motor level, and add a significant amount of weight on the end of the decavitation plate, above the prop, and look for movement between jack plate and transom, or motor and transom if no jack plate. Better if someone else adds the weight and you look for the movement. Mine cost a serious chunk of change to replace, But I felt the boat was worth it.
    Creativity is just intelligence fooling around

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeetbum View Post
    To check for rot I take a small hammer with a flat face or a pocket knife, and begin tapping around lightly on the transom beginning in the top outside corners. This is usually a solid area and you will hear a sharp sound when you tap. Moving in inches go towards the holes in the transom, motor bolts, transducers, drains for bilge and splashwell and listen for the taps to dull and sound spongy. Get my drift? Also, remove the transom saver, trim the motor level, and add a significant amount of weight on the end of the decavitation plate, above the prop, and look for movement between jack plate and transom, or motor and transom if no jack plate. Better if someone else adds the weight and you look for the movement. Mine cost a serious chunk of change to replace, But I felt the boat was worth it.
    Thats awesome info Skeet. I know how to check now for sure. If i'm going to spend some good money on glass I'm checking the boat for rot.
    New goal 16" crappie by December 30

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Archerguy1 View Post
    Well the average guy can do about 2 things on an Etec, change the spark plugs or the water pump imellor, everything else on that motor reqiures an Evinrude dealer with the laptop and comunication cable to access the ECM , I have worked on them since the FICHT days that caused OMC to go down the drain and as good as they have become they still need that mechanic.
    So are the newer ones good and the older ones junk? Which years should I be concerned about.
    New goal 16" crappie by December 30

  5. #15
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    The newer Etec motors made in the mid - late 2000's to present are good motors, but like anything the owner can make it good or a peice of crap, running cheap gas, or using any old 2 stroke oil that's like 8.00 a gallon well your asking for trouble. A good grade of gas, oil made for a direct injected motor and using sea foam all the time or a good ethenol treatment stabilizer will do wonders for the motor
    Tom

    "The reason I play Golf.....there are no broke down boats on a Golf Course"

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