Thread: type of hose to use

I would re plumb the front livewell. Makes the boat more attractive if you sell it. There should be a rigging tube that your hose runs through so it shouldnt be a problem to pull a new one through it. If you do have trouble getting the old one out, it will be twice as hard to get a new one in. (This will be the case if the boat is foam injected, and/or no rigging tube.) Tying parachute cord to the old hose before pulling it out, an old throttle cable, or a plumbers snake will do the trick to re pull the new hose. You might as well do it right though. You can always turn the aerator head off to use the live well for storage. I'd rather have it and not need it as to need it and not have it.

Your leak is PROBABLY at the fittings going into or the drain fittings coming out of your live wells. (Could be the fittings at the rear also). Most companies didn't use silicone on the fittings before putting the hose and clamp on them. Most all of our leaks are caused by the fittings not having silicone on them. (It's hard to get the clamps tight enough without breaking the fitting unless you use the silicone on the fitting itself to seal it ). The hose, unless expose to light should be OK, unless they used the cheap, semi clear smoke colored type of hose. If you can see the fitting, run the aerator pump while in the water and look at it. if it leaks, just take the clamp and hose off of it and put silicone on the fitting, then re install.

By the way, you can use any type of quality water hose as long as it's smooth on the inside. Any RV or Marine shop should be able to help you with the hose.

Dohthanks for all the help but I"LL tell you what huntin for a leak is kinda like lookin for hens teeth, geuss now just pull the decks latter fish now an hope the bilge pump keeps on workin

pumpkin, put in an automatic bilge pump.

Is the boat welded or riveted? Probably is the plumbing, but older riveted aluminum boats are just that. Although the might look good, rivets can wear. With the boat on the trailer you can fill the bilge and check the rivets below the water-line. There's quite a few ways to repair damaged ones. And checking plumbing really isn't that difficult, do them one at a time to isolate the leak. If it leaks in the winter and freezes you'll have bigger problems esp if your pumps freeze up. Boat maintenance sucks and everybody will agree, but cold water sucks even more. Things have a way of really getting bad when you need them most. IMHO which I have plenty of. If you have easy bilge access, you can always put valves in. Plug the livewells one at a time and fill, if the fittings are leaking water will start to drain out your bilge. To check the drain hoses plug where they exit the boat, if they're leaking it will show again in the bilge. To check the aeriators turn off the spray head, the back presssure will cause the leak through your bilge. If you can't turn off your head then remove it and use your finger or anything you can wedge into the hose. You can check all your plumbing in less than 1 hour. Be safe not sorry, cold waters coming.

Originally Posted by olduckhunter

pumpkin, put in an automatic bilge pump.

2 of them!!!!

I geuss im makeing it sound worse than it is after about 6hours on the water there is water in the floor not alot but some now in the bilge compartment theres way more turn on the bilge pump an in a bit its gonebut when that big stream of water is hitting the lake it sounds pretty bad..I can"t see the hose under the deckto tell were its coming from so without pulling the decks out I am stuck.but what I can see looks like garden hose that cant be right so they have been out before. like crappiedoc siad nothing to do but getter done! I would post a picture if i knew how