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Thread: Losing Prime

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Default Losing Prime


    Why do I lose my prime when not running engine? When I shut down for 30 minutes or so to fish, I usually have to squeze the primer bulb again as it has lost prime. Notice it happens more frequently in warm/hot weather. I replaced the primer bulb and replaced the fuel line with a gray, ethonol resistant. Should I replace the fuel pump kit? Motor is 115hp Mercury. Year-1985.

  2. #2
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    Did you get a name-brand bulb or aftermarket? I've never had luck with anything but a Mercury bulb.

    Otherwise, I'd be looking for an air leak is a line someplace, maybe even in the tank. You may have a check valve in or at the tank connection that is leaking.

  3. #3
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    Yes, I replaced the bulb & fuel hose with Mercury parts. Thanks for your suggestions.

  4. #4
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    Same for me, but I'm due for a rebuild on my pump, they're really just paper.

  5. #5
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    I had the same problem last year during the summer months on a brand new Suzuki 115. I talked with the dealership and they told me I was not the only one with this problem. I had them add a flow through fuel pump to the fuel line ahead of the primer bulb and the problem went away. I still have the primer bulb in case the added pump were to fail. I had them wire it to run when the ignition is on and I never have to touch the primer bulb. Hope this helps.

    Bo

  6. #6
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    Bad check ball in the fuel bulb is usually the culprit. Best ones that I have found are the OMC bulbs. Since you didn't skimp on parts I'd look for a loose connection in your fuel lines that is allowing air to bleed into the line, losing prime-mine are usually loose hose clamps. When I switched to the gray lines it seemed like I had to torque the clamps quite a bit more to get a good seal on the fuel lines as opposed to the older rubber ones.

  7. #7
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    Thanks Code 357 & Dutch552. I will check the hose clamp connections, though I'm sure they are quite snug. I am really thinking it could be the fuel pump since I have not changed it out in quite a while.

  8. #8
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    Sep 2007
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    Also look at how your bulb is oriented or laying normally. Those check valves are a caged ball type, the ball counts on gravity to find the seat in the valve it seals against. If the bulb is laying on its side with extra hose in the bilge then there is little chances of it checking flow back into the tank. When I set up new fuel line, there is a short piece between the motor and the bulb, the bulb is laying against the transom at or above the deck or like structure at the transom, with the fuel line where it would be when under way, the bulb is in that section that is veritical, that length coming up out of the bilge area to the motor. Additional fuel line to the tank is just enough to allow the slack needed for the motor to swivel lock to lock without pulling on the hose. Just my experience but the grey line will let you down, especially with some age and at cold temps, it becomes brittle. I build lines out of quality alcohol safe line from any parts store. Have not had a line failure with Gates.

  9. #9
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    If it was the fuel pump it would not run up to standards. Air leak.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by sparkie51 View Post
    If it was the fuel pump it would not run up to standards. Air leak.
    Agreed, usually the first sign of a fuel pump going out is a miss that resolves when you pump the primer bulb or an engine that wants to dies but revs back up to a smooth idle when you pump it.

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