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Thread: Seafoam or Marine StaBil

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drum_Master View Post
    Jamestown is saying it's mostly about water, which is what you use HEAT, aka Isopropyl alcohol for.

    Jamestown is a distributor, not the manufacturer.
    Which has nothing to do with what they are willing to claim for the product!

    Quote Originally Posted by Drum_Master View Post
    From their website:

    Functioning as biocatalysts, enzymes increase and control the rate of chemical reactions. Star TronŽ uses highly specialized enzymes to modify how gasoline and diesel fuel burns, resulting in more complete and uniform combustion with reduced engine emissions. This same enzyme package breaks down fuel sludge and allows water to be dispersed throughout the fuel as sub-micron sized droplets that can be eliminated as the engine operates while also cleaning the entire fuel delivery system. Contaminants are either safely burned off or filtered out, and fuel chemistry is stabilized for long-term storage.
    Enzymes as far as I know are proteins (amino acids) which are pretty much destroyed by petroleum products. According to their MSD greater than .5% of the product is organic, meaning it is carbon based. Proprietary Organic Compounds actually could be petroleum distillates as they are organic compounds. The Majority component is Naphtha at approximately 95% of the product.

    Quote Originally Posted by Drum_Master View Post
    Preventing gum and varnish buildup is critical for good gasoline performance. This is especially important in E-10 fuel, where the introduction of ethanol into the fuel delivery system may cause old gums and varnish to break off tank walls and contaminate the fuel. Star TronŽ can dissolve gum and varnish back into E-10 gasoline.
    Looks to me that all these products claim to do this more or less, and they all use advanced kerosene based products.

    Quote Originally Posted by Drum_Master View Post
    Water issues are due to water having a stronger affinity to alocohol (ethanol) than gasoline. When moisture enters the fuel system, it bonds with the ethanol (alcohol) and seperates from the gasoline. HEAT is adding more alcohol to this equation.
    Ethanol is a primary alcohol, Isopropyl is a secondary alcohol which, unlike ethanol, bonds with both water and petrol. Not all alcohols are the same, not by a long shot, but I am not going to get deep into the chemistry of alcohols, you are free to look it up on your own. In short, you don't understand that they are not the same, and react differently with water and fuel.

    Quote Originally Posted by Drum_Master View Post
    Seems to me, that one cylinder would run out of fuel before the others, leaving it dry? Doesn't take much to gall aluminum. JMHO
    Well, I have just purchased a new boat and motor, so before I run it, I'll be sure to speak to the mechanic, but as far as I know there is no such thing as an aluminum cylinder wall. Every aluminum block I have ever seen was sleeved so that the iron rings rubbed against an iron sleeve, not an aluminum block, which I suspect would not hold up for long at all because as you properly observed, it doesn't take much to gall aluminum.

    I am glad you brought this all up though, it lead me to learn more, according to the Sta Bil MSDS, it's the same as HEAT, Isopropyl alcohol! PRI-G is Stoddard Solvent, AKA White spirit, and is more effective than StaBil. So, Naphtha and Stoddard Solvent seem to be the way to go! SeaFoam adds 40% Pale Oil, 40% Naphtha, and 10% Isopropyl Alcohol. Now we can all save a lot of money by buying the ingredients from hardware stores and mixing them to the proportions in the products mentioned.

  2. #32
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    Wow:

    Yamaha says of it's V-6 4 stroke:

    "Next-generation engine block features plasma-fused sleeveless cylinder walls, which are 60% stronger than steel, and much lighter."

    I am not sure what this means, plasma on aluminum, IME, would vaporize it, so I have no idea what they are doing here, but it sure is intriguing! If it is 60% harder than steel, no matter what it is, it is not going to be very mailable, so it is not going to be easy to gall, but again, I am going to talk to my mechanic when I pick up the boat. In the mean time, I am going to try to figure out what this plasma fusing is all about!

    Found it;

    "Plasma fused simply means an alloy dust, comprised of chrome, nickel, manganese and other elements, is super-heated in a plasma process and fused to the cylinder wall."

    So it's akin to a sleeve in it's effect, but is apparently fused into the aluminum. I would guess that they have to be bored and sleeved to rebuild them though.

  3. #33
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    Even if you do run the carb out of fuel, you still have fuel in teh bowl. It is never completely empty unless you drain the fuel bowl.
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  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hanr3 View Post
    Even if you do run the carb out of fuel, you still have fuel in teh bowl. It is never completely empty unless you drain the fuel bowl.
    True, and if memory serves the last Mercury carbs I rebuilt had small holes in the bowels which very much affected performance. That said it does drain most of the smaller orifices, and I think it's still better to run it dry, but I could be full of it, I am far from an expert. Whether or not you run the carbs as dry as you can, it would seem that unless you want to run premium fuel, which has about the same additives as the cleaners, it's good to run the cleaners through now and again. I don't think that premium has the heavier concentrations of naphtha and the like that the additives have, if my understanding is correct running a tank of premium now and then will have a less dramatic effect.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drum_Master View Post
    Seems to me, that one cylinder would run out of fuel before the others, leaving it dry? Doesn't take much to gall aluminum. JMHO
    One other thought, with oil injection this may not be an issue, though running an engine dry with oil injection may really gum up carbs... I am definitely going to chat with my mechanic about this!

  6. #36
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    I've heard the arguments on not pulling the fuel line, but I will swear by it for the engines running on premix oil/gas. I have a 1976 Johnson 115 motor that has always had the fuel line pulled and run until dies after every trip. This is a 35 yr old motor that still starts up and runs every spring without problem and no major repairs. I also am a fan of seafoam. I'm including the concentrated seafoam "decarb" treatment routine once each spring in my yrly maintenance process plus continuing to add seafoam to the gas at each fill-up. Tried the decarb process last spring and was thoroughly impressed. Kinda smoked up the whole lake where I was at though....lol.

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  7. #37
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    if sea foam sits in your carb. bowels it wil dry up and cause u 2 have problems when u go 2 use it. like when it sits over 2-3 months. took out a fuel pump out of a 200 merc. he used sea foam ... id use marine stabil

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by OU812 View Post
    if sea foam sits in your carb. bowels it wil dry up and cause u 2 have problems when u go 2 use it. like when it sits over 2-3 months. took out a fuel pump out of a 200 merc. he used sea foam ... id use marine stabil
    Could also go with Yamaha Ring Free Plus;

    1,2,4-Trimethylbenzene (CAS# 95-63-6), 2%;
    Petroleum distillate (CAS #64742-94-5), 25%
    Proprietary additive (CAS#: Mixture), 70@
    Xylene (CAS # 1330-20-7), 3%.

    If you are not supposed to allow it to sit in the carb for sure Yamaha would tell you, the others are just pushing product, Yamaha sells engines, and if their product is destructive they might get stuck with warranty work... I would guess their product is one of the most expensive ones though.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by OU812 View Post
    if sea foam sits in your carb. bowels it wil dry up and cause u 2 have problems when u go 2 use it. like when it sits over 2-3 months. took out a fuel pump out of a 200 merc. he used sea foam ... id use marine stabil
    Could also go with Yamaha Ring Free Plus;

    1,2,4-Trimethylbenzene (CAS# 95-63-6), 2%;
    Petroleum distillate (CAS #64742-94-5), 25%
    Proprietary additive (CAS#: Mixture), 70@
    Xylene (CAS # 1330-20-7), 3%.

    If you are not supposed to allow it to sit in the carb for sure Yamaha would tell you, the others are just pushing product, Yamaha sells engines, and if their product is destructive they might get stuck with warranty work... I would guess their product is one of the most expensive ones though. It is certainly one of the most complex as far as ingredients are concerned.

  10. #40
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    I use both. Bought a used boat two years ago and added Seafoam and Marine Sta-bil to every tank . Had a rough idle to it at first . First tank this year added two oz/gal of Seafoam and I swear that motor idles and runs as good as new . Seafoam will keep your fuel system , carbs , and engine clean from varnish and carbon. Just my 3 cents (inflation) worth .

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