Fiberglass gelcoat restoration

[old fuzzy]

thanks for the info...

[Turtlebait]

Most of the waxes you find in discount stores and parts stores are full of fillers.Most of them do not last more then 30 to 60 days and it needs to be redone.Some parts stores has the better stuff behind the counter,you have to ask for it like the pro's do.

They make a paint cleaner that cleans all the old waxes,ox. and oils.
They also make a sealer which shines like wax that will last 6 to 9 months which also can be layered for a deeper wet look.The sealers and cleaners can not be found in discount stores or parts stores.

Zaino,wolf gang and pinnacle xmt are good products and easy to work with.I always put a sealer on and use pinnacle wax on top of the sealer.

[Scrapper]

I'm not doing the side on this boat...he only wants the top cap done. I called him last night and he asked "do you think it'll be alright"??...as in, is this going to do any good??...I hope he is plesantly suprised.

I agree with turtlebait...you get what you pay for with most things...and that includes the products you use. The main thing I look for in a marine wax is that its pure carnuba...and doesn't have silicone or other fillers in it.

You have to remember, most gelcoats have a few layers of clear gel sprayed on them over the colored gel and metalflake...NOT CLEARCOAT...when you hear someone say it needs a new clearcoat put on or needs the clear redone, its not clearcoat. Each time you wet sand, you are removing some of that clear GEL...when there isn't anymore clear...and you are down to the flake...you'll get really silvery spots when you wetsand....that is caused from the sanding you are doing laying the flake over that had been suspended at different angles in the gelcoat. Once you get done with this, you want to keep good waxes, sealers, protectors, etc...on the boat from then on. I would not recommend wetsanding over three times at the most as you'll be getting really close to the flake. I know alot of folks out there will spray an auto clear on their boats but most will not last over a couple years, and will yellow. They are not made for fiberglass. There are a few automotive clears out there you CAN use...but are expensive...one that many of you have probably heard of is Imron, by Dupont...it will work...the reason it will work is its epoxy based...they use Imron and other epoxy based paints on fiberglass parts on 18 wheelers, planes, etc.

[drill instructor]

scrapper, can you take a picture of all the products that you used. I want to make sure im getting the correct ones. thanks

[Turtlebait]

Scrapper In most cases your right on in you get what you pay for, sometimes tho things seem high but are worth their money in the long run.

I like Zaino products b/c of the cleaning power and shine you get not counting the lasting part.When it gets in the trim and hard to remove areas you can just wipe it off easy.I can do my pickup with 2 0z of sealer were as the discount store takes alot more making the price higher then the better products.I used to do as you do,wet sand and all the steps your taking and it laborest not counting back breaking:D.

I like the cyclo buffer and the power ball,the pinnacle wax I use is around 80 for 8 0z.It goes on like butter and wipes off easy,the product will do several several pickups,cars and boats making the cost worth it.
Wolf gang is also a good product and pinnacle XMT is too,with these products you can turn the color a little shade darker for a richer color.
Wet sanding is not for the average joe,it takes a good eye when sanding gel coat or any paint but as you know you can damage gel with one or two pasts to many.
Around here you can not get what its worth in your time to bring a boat back to new cond'tion.

[zappaf19]

That is well worth the time you put in!!!! Excellent post and job.
Bill

[kycreek]

Looks like you did a good job.

[Scrapper]

I had to copy and paste this pic from another site I'm on. I hope the pic comes through. This is the stuff I used on the first boat I did last year. The main things I've changed is the dewalt cordless doesn't have enough grunt and speed to last on a bat. So I use a corded drill rated at 3000 rpm or less. I have two mothers balls...one for wax and one for polishing compound. The dupont wax in the pic was replaced with McGuires Flagship Marine wax. And I use the foam buffing pad for the rubbing compound. Hope this helps.

[drill instructor]

Thanks, we need to make this a sticky.

[siscoken]

Do you know how long the restoration lasts?
I don't have any problem bringing back the shine on my skeeter but it only seems to last about a month at the most.
Thnaks Ken