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Thread: Rigging for submerged timber

  1. #1
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    Default Rigging for submerged timber


    I mostly fish brush piles and use a 1/4 oz egg sinker above a swivel and then fluoro to my jig. I like this because it gets the jig down fast and I can use lighter jigs and not be affected by wind as much or having to wait forever for a 1/32 oz jig to sink 20ft or more. Also works great to help identify my jig on the livescope with the two returns moving together.

    When I'm fishing brush piles, I'm usually keeping the jig just over top of the pile or down the side of it and I don't get hung up much. Lately, I've been fishing more standing timber and having to drop the jig down past branches and getting hung up a lot more and losing a lot more jigs. Usually I could reach the jig with the rod tip, but that doesn't work with the egg sinker in the way.

    I've thought about using a drop shot weight and putting the jig above it on a loop. I could still reach down with the rod tip and unstick a jig and the weight is less likely to get hung up. I'd still get the same benefits of the egg sinker, but wonder if the weight would spook the fish, since they're more likely to see it first. Also, the jigs action wouldn't be quite the same as being on the end of the line.

    What rig are y'all using when vertical jigging with livescope, especially in submerged standing timber?

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    I use a couple of the rubber bobber stops and a egg sinker and if needed this way I can crank down and the egg sinker will slip down line to jig and I have better chance of retrieving jig. I try to just use a jig only though if fishing heavy cover.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperDave336 View Post
    I use a couple of the rubber bobber stops and a egg sinker and if needed this way I can crank down and the egg sinker will slip down line to jig and I have better chance of retrieving jig. I try to just use a jig only though if fishing heavy cover.
    The bobber stops are a good idea. I hadn't thought of that.

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    I use weedless jigs a lot when casting to timber/brush. But that's just me. (I don't, however, use them when I'm flippin' double jig rigs with Livescope)

    But as far as having the weight above the jig, and the jig getting hung up, I'd just drop the weight down below the jig ... sorta using it as a "lure knocker". I rarely, if ever, poke the rod tip down to try and unhang a jig ... especially if I can't see that far down. Heard too many "broke my rod tip" stories about doing that, so I'd rather lose the jig than break the rod tip.
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    Quote Originally Posted by paleus View Post
    The bobber stops are a good idea. I hadn't thought of that.
    Probably have to use some beads with the bobber stops. The egg sinkers I have the bobber stop would go through the hole in the egg sinker without the bead.

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    the newest thing is them big ole whopper egg head jigs , hear tell they go down like a rock and are highly visible on ls
    sum kawl me tha outlaw ketchn whales
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperDave336 View Post
    Probably have to use some beads with the bobber stops. The egg sinkers I have the bobber stop would go through the hole in the egg sinker without the bead.
    superdave I have changed to steel weights the hole diameter where the line goes threw is lots smaller and you can just use your bobber stop, no beads needed. Learned that on Thomas fishing on utube check him out.
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    Some good ideas. Heavy cover can be a bear and loss of jigs.
    Bob
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    A simple trick I use on my lead egg sinkers is to pass the line through three times before continuing on to the jig. I don't use any bobber stops for this as the egg sinker will stay put, even thru a good hook set. The advantage here, in brush piles or timber, is the fact that you can push the eye of your pole down to the sinker and (gently) push the egg sinker and jig together then off the tree or brush.
    CATCH A BIG-UN

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