No reason why you can't do that
Can I hard wire my charging cord, then when it need’s charging I can plug it into the wall socket, I think that plugging and unplugging my charger after a while will cause problems. Just thinking. I know I have a onboard charger for my other batteries.
No reason why you can't do that
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I've got a flat 2 pin connector pig tail bolted to my terminals on my Amped Outdoors battery, and have flat 2 pin connectors in the boat on the live scope to plug it into, as well as the charger. Makes it pretty easy to just unplug from one and plug into the other.
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I have onboard charger and installed one of these in my spash well. It only took maybe 5 minutes to mark out the hole and drill it with a hole saw. One of the better improvements I've made. Now i just back the boat into the garage, flip open the back compartment for air vent, and plug the extension cord into the port. All can be done from outside and no more fishing around for cables or hooking up chargers. They also sell it with 2 ac plugs, so you can add another onboard charger to your battery and also attach everything to the same port
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Good idea
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This is what I’m wanting to do. But, when you have 10ga running to LS it defeats the purpose when you choke it down to the 16ga wire on the connectors. But I am also gonna admit I have not fully understood or agree with the whole 10ga wire deal. No more than LS pulls I dont inderstand the ‘need’ for 10ga wire. My2bits
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Could be the lower resistance offered by the 10ga wire is what the livescope requires
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Thats the universal blanket response when someone is having a sonar issue. Ive seen people recommending 4 and 6ga wiring now. Its kind of absurd, you should not need bigger than 14ga for a boat length run for 1.75A livescope draw... Thats 1/2 the draw of your livewell pump. Yeah livescope pulls 3A at start up, but your usage draw when running is 1.75A at 12v, about 1.5A at 13.5v.
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Resistance from wiring in the run can cost you several tenths of a volt. Resistance from connections, including at the battery, at the unit, at the unit’s cable and the fuse can cost a bunch too. When you only have about 1.5-2V to spare above the minimum operating voltage of the equipment, it’s important to save everywhere you can, especially if the battery is used for engine cranking.
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