Lithium battery question

[Danny Lang]

Can I hard wire my charging cord, then when it need’s charging I can plug it into the wall socket, I think that plugging and unplugging my charger after a while will cause problems. Just thinking. I know I have a onboard charger for my other batteries.

[DockShootinJack]

No reason why you can't do that

[TreednNC]

I've got a flat 2 pin connector pig tail bolted to my terminals on my Amped Outdoors battery, and have flat 2 pin connectors in the boat on the live scope to plug it into, as well as the charger. Makes it pretty easy to just unplug from one and plug into the other.

[KRW]

I've got a flat 2 pin connector pig tail bolted to my terminals on my Amped Outdoors battery, and have flat 2 pin connectors in the boat on the live scope to plug it into, as well as the charger. Makes it pretty easy to just unplug from one and plug into the other.

This is what I’m wanting to do. But, when you have 10ga running to LS it defeats the purpose when you choke it down to the 16ga wire on the connectors. But I am also gonna admit I have not fully understood or agree with the whole 10ga wire deal. No more than LS pulls I dont inderstand the ‘need’ for 10ga wire. My2bits

[Kevin22]

This is what I’m wanting to do. But, when you have 10ga running to LS it defeats the purpose when you choke it down to the 16ga wire on the connectors. But I am also gonna admit I have not fully understood or agree with the whole 10ga wire deal. No more than LS pulls I dont inderstand the ‘need’ for 10ga wire. My2bits

Thats the universal blanket response when someone is having a sonar issue. Ive seen people recommending 4 and 6ga wiring now. Its kind of absurd, you should not need bigger than 14ga for a boat length run for 1.75A livescope draw... Thats 1/2 the draw of your livewell pump. Yeah livescope pulls 3A at start up, but your usage draw when running is 1.75A at 12v, about 1.5A at 13.5v.

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[CatFan]

Thats the universal blanket response when someone is having a sonar issue. Ive seen people recommending 4 and 6ga wiring now. Its kind of absurd, you should not need bigger than 14ga for a boat length run for 1.75A livescope draw... Thats 1/2 the draw of your livewell pump. Yeah livescope pulls 3A at start up, but your usage draw when running is 1.75A at 12v, about 1.5A at 13.5v.

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Resistance from wiring in the run can cost you several tenths of a volt. Resistance from connections, including at the battery, at the unit, at the unit’s cable and the fuse can cost a bunch too. When you only have about 1.5-2V to spare above the minimum operating voltage of the equipment, it’s important to save everywhere you can, especially if the battery is used for engine cranking.

[Kevin22]

Resistance from wiring in the run can cost you several tenths of a volt. Resistance from connections, including at the battery, at the unit, at the unit’s cable and the fuse can cost a bunch too. When you only have about 1.5-2V to spare above the minimum operating voltage of the equipment, it’s important to save everywhere you can, especially if the battery is used for engine cranking.

About 5-8% loss is okay, any more that and you have some bad connections somewhere or need to go to larger wire.

14 gauge marine wire running 20 feet on a 3amp load (twice that of livescope) should drop about 0.3v off 12v, so 3%. Having resistance and voltage loss is normal, you just do not want it to be excessive. There is zero reason to use 8, 6, or 4ga wire for a 1.75A draw just to reduce a 3% voltage loss to <1%. Sounds good, but makes no real world impact other than you are spending 5 times more on wire.



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[CatFan]

About 5-8% loss is okay, any more that and you have some bad connections somewhere or need to go to larger wire.

14 gauge marine wire running 20 feet on a 3amp load (twice that of livescope) should drop about 0.3v off 12v, so 3%. Having resistance and voltage loss is normal, you just do not want it to be excessive. There is zero reason to use 8, 6, or 4ga wire for a 1.75A draw just to reduce a 3% voltage loss to <1%. Sounds good, but makes no real world impact other than you are spending 5 times more on wire.



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Until you crank the outboard and see a large voltage sag. Then, any reduction in loss to the units is critical. Voltage loss happens on both the positive and negative wire.

[Kevin22]

Until you crank the outboard and see a large voltage sag. Then, any reduction in loss to the units is critical. Voltage loss happens on both the positive and negative wire.

This post is not about running livescope on a starting battery, it is about running on a dedicated lithium battery.

And even then, a voltage sag when starting the motor is a weak or too small of a battery. You can have 0 gauge wiring to your fishfinder and it will still sag to whatever the battery goes to when your 30A starter is engaged... Having thinner wire to your fishfinder does not make your voltage drop when you start the engine.

On top of all of that, why do you care if your livescope transducer voltage is dropping when you start the outboard? I dont know if I have ever been watching sonar while starting the motor.

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[CatFan]

This post is not about running livescope on a starting battery, it is about running on a dedicated lithium battery.

And even then, a voltage sag when starting the motor is a weak or too small of a battery. You can have 0 gauge wiring to your fishfinder and it will still sag to whatever the battery goes to when your 30A starter is engaged... Having thinner wire to your fishfinder does not make your voltage drop when you start the engine.

On top of all of that, why do you care if your livescope transducer voltage is dropping when you start the outboard? I dont know if I have ever been watching sonar while starting the motor.

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You are clearly an amazing expert. No sense correcting your misunderstanding.