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Thread: Braid and slip bobber?

  1. #21
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    How deep are you trying to fish? Are you unable to cast with a pegged float?

  2. #22
    ESBguy is offline Slabmaster II * Crappie.com Supporter * Member Sponsor
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    Not trying to toot my own horn (too loud ), but I believe my bobbers are the best for braid.
    Leroy
    HL Outdoors - the Everlasting Slip Bobber
    www.slipbobber.com

  3. #23
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    I’m fishing down anywhere from 8-17 feet. The reason I want a smaller diameter line is that the first drop off o the lake where I fish is a ways out there. Cast of 70-80 feet gets me right on the edge of the drop off. To fish the deeper water, hundred foot cast are the norm. 4# test will get me there but to many break offs (predator fish and snag). Right now I use a large float for 2 reasons. One is visibilty due to the distance from shore. The second is for me to reach out that distance I need more weight. Right now I’m using 4#7 split shots with the slip floats that I’m using. I have modified my slip floats with longer than usual stems, mine are at least 7-9 inches long. I wrap small piece of bright tape near the top to help detect bites. This time of the year the bites are extra light and just a slight movement of the flag on the stem will tell me a fish is biting.i

    At this time of the year with the ice just leaving the fish are still in the ice mood and hovering close to the bottom. One lake I fish the water has been drawn down 8 feet so the edge of the drop off to deeper water is out there.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by sparkie51 View Post
    I’m fishing down anywhere from 8-17 feet. The reason I want a smaller diameter line is that the first drop off o the lake where I fish is a ways out there. Cast of 70-80 feet gets me right on the edge of the drop off. To fish the deeper water, hundred foot cast are the norm. 4# test will get me there but to many break offs (predator fish and snag). Right now I use a large float for 2 reasons. One is visibilty due to the distance from shore. The second is for me to reach out that distance I need more weight. Right now I’m using 4#7 split shots with the slip floats that I’m using. I have modified my slip floats with longer than usual stems, mine are at least 7-9 inches long. I wrap small piece of bright tape near the top to help detect bites. This time of the year the bites are extra light and just a slight movement of the flag on the stem will tell me a fish is biting.i

    At this time of the year with the ice just leaving the fish are still in the ice mood and hovering close to the bottom. One lake I fish the water has been drawn down 8 feet so the edge of the drop off to deeper water is out there.
    Braid will be perfect for you in that situation, I would go with something like 10/2 or 6/1 line.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by sparkie51 View Post
    I’m fishing down anywhere from 8-17 feet. The reason I want a smaller diameter line is that the first drop off o the lake where I fish is a ways out there. Cast of 70-80 feet gets me right on the edge of the drop off. To fish the deeper water, hundred foot cast are the norm. 4# test will get me there but to many break offs (predator fish and snag). Right now I use a large float for 2 reasons. One is visibilty due to the distance from shore. The second is for me to reach out that distance I need more weight.
    The big Thill TG wagglers support a lot of weight. They are aerodynamic and will cast very far.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by deathb4disco View Post
    The big Thill TG wagglers support a lot of weight. They are aerodynamic and will cast very far.
    The only problem I have with the waggler type of floats is that they flop around, and are cumbersome I prefer the streamline floats, with line going straight through it.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Techno2000 View Post
    The only problem I have with the waggler type of floats is that they flop around ...
    I would say that's a strength, not a weakness. The "flop" allows the waggler to fold over on the strike so you get a much better hook set. There is no slack between you and the fish. You have a direct connection.


    Quote Originally Posted by Techno2000 View Post
    ... I prefer the streamline floats, with line going straight through it.
    To each his own, but the "through the body" float is a very poor design. It puts slack in the line and maximizes friction, which is the last thing you want in a slip float.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by deathb4disco View Post
    I would say that's a strength, not a weakness. The "flop" allows the waggler to fold over on the strike so you get a much better hook set. There is no slack between you and the fish. You have a direct connection.




    To each his own, but the "through the body" float is a very poor design. It puts slack in the line and maximizes friction, which is the last thing you want in a slip float.
    Well, what I mean is, when you are walking with the rod in your hand, or trying to make a cast,the waggler float is flopping around, I found that to be aggravating. Also, with the line going through a float it still has direct contact the to the bait, at least more so than a fixed float.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Techno2000 View Post
    Well, what I mean is, when you are walking with the rod in your hand, or trying to make a cast,the waggler float is flopping around, I found that to be aggravating.
    I use float adaptors -- little silicone tubes that the waggler plugs into. I don't "plug in" the waggler till I'm actually fishing, so this is not a problem.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Techno2000 View Post
    Also, with the line going through a float it still has direct contact the to the bait, at least more so than a fixed float.
    But you have a "hinge" in your line that can be as much as a 90 degree angle, depending on the length of your cast. That "hinge" is slack and bad for hook sets. It also creates friction.

    To each his own, though.

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