Crankbait Pushing Depth Chart

[Back Water]

You can put the weight above a barrel swivel and then tie a snap swivel to the leader (about 3 ft.) and tie the leader to the barrel swivel. Then you can easily change baits with out having to tie on.

[CrappiePappy]

Perhaps another dumb question, but hopefully someone can help out. The slip sinker type rigging especially above a crank bait, how are you doing that? I am assuming you don't let the sinker slide all the way to the crank. Do you use a leader with a swivel and put the weight above it or just a little rubber sinker think with a bead (similar to slip bobber in reverse?) Thanks

I use a slip sinker on the main line ... which has a duo-lock snap tied on the end. And there's a bead between the sinker & snap, which has a hole large enough to slip over the knot. This protects the knot from damage by sinker movement or pressure. My baits are rigged on varying lengths of lighter pound test mono leaders, which have the bait on one end and a loop knot on the other. But, I'm mostly using jigs, not cranks.

The crank guys I know of are putting swivels on the end of their main line ... they pre-rig trolling weights on a leader and put snaps or swivels on the other end, then wrap them around a section of "pool noodle". Their cranks are kept in tackle boxes, arranged by color & model size. Their leader lines are generally 5ft long, and of a lighter pound test than the main line. Those that use "slip sinker" style weights are rigging them like I do my jigs.

Most 'bobber stops' are not sufficient to hold the heavy slip sinker weights in place, and if you use the trolling weights (which have rings &/or ring/swivel built in) the bobber stop would be redundant.

["G"]

You can get trolling weights from Grizzly Jig or Bass Pro Shop that has the swivels built in them.....snap weight on line then three ft. leader from weight to crankbait.......or you can order some from ScottV on the MS board.

[rcornish]

Thanks all for the answers to my questions...