Braid suggestions

[Clint]

I have always used ultra-light gear and 2 & 4 # test line for Crappie & Bluegill. I recently bought a Medium Heavy rod and paired it with a medium reel (Orvis #2). The reel is marked for 6 to 10 # line and the rod (BPS GS series IM6) is marked for 6 to 17# line. I would like to try braid as the fellow with whom I fish uses braid almost exclusively and I like it for the little I have used it.

I am looking for suggestions on which size, type (I see there are different ones) and which manufacturer I should try. Also any tips on using it, such as to tie an overhand knot after tying a Palomar knot to keep the line from un-raveling (that tip my fishing partner told me).

[smoothlures]

10 lb/2 lb diameter Sufix Performance Braid is my favorite for panfish. Fireline is tops, too, but is a little stiff for light applications. Never had a Palomar slip, even in braid.

[Redy2Fish]

tie an overhand knot after tying a Palomar knot to keep the line from un-raveling

I burn/melt it with a lighter after tying the knot.

[CrappiePappy]

Right you are, Turtlebait !!

And one other little "problem" that may occur with a wrist snap cast, is when the bait comes between the line & rod blank ... between the tip eye & next guide down. Most of us casters have had this occur ... and some may have wondered "just how in the heck did that happen ?? " LOL !!
Simply put ... your bait is hanging down from the rod tip, a few inches - on the backswing, the bait arches up and back - then when you snap the rod forward, the line between the tip & guides has the tension taken off, as the bait starts its forward movement - and the bait flies right thru the opening between the rod blank & loose line. (it can also occur if the bait is allowed to arch/swing too long, on the backswing)

If you take your time, and make a smooth movement cast .. even if it is just a wrist action cast .. you're less likely to have this happen. And while it may be true that it's "no big deal" to simply pull the bait back out from between the main line & rod, and get on with your casting/fishing .... it "can" be a big deal, if you happen to hook into a good fish on that cast, BEFORE you notice the problem.

This doesn't occur to everyone, nor does it occur every time ... but, I've done it, & I've seen my fishing partners have it happen to them. In most instances, it was during one of those "hurry up & get your cast off" moments.

.. cp

[CrappiePappy]

I have always used ultra-light gear and 2 & 4 # test line for Crappie & Bluegill. I recently bought a Medium Heavy rod and paired it with a medium reel (Orvis #2). The reel is marked for 6 to 10 # line and the rod (BPS GS series IM6) is marked for 6 to 17# line. I would like to try braid as the fellow with whom I fish uses braid almost exclusively and I like it for the little I have used it.

I am looking for suggestions on which size, type (I see there are different ones) and which manufacturer I should try. Also any tips on using it, such as to tie an overhand knot after tying a Palomar knot to keep the line from un-raveling (that tip my fishing partner told me).

Everyone's gonna have their favorites :p and I'm no exception, though I will admit ... I've only used two braids.
First one I used was Spiderwire 20/6 (grey color)... and it's on a 8' flyrod/spinning reel outfit. I use it exclusively as a slipfloat/minnow rig outfit, for drift fishing &/or fishing down in the branches of submerged trees. No leader used ... line is tied direct to a #2 litewire hook, with a improved clinch knot. No problems Thumbs Up Line is still usable, & still strong ... even though it's been on this reel for over 20yrs (it sees limited use, these days)

Second one is PowerPro 10/2 hi-vis ... and it's now on a 7' Bionic Blade IM8/Shimano Spirex 2000 outfit. It has yet to be used with this combo. Prior to this, the rod was a 6' Browning MH spinning rod (w/same reel). Primary use will be to cast Roadrunners & Whirley Bees around submerged cover, with a slight potential for deep jigging or trolling use. The PowerPro has performed well, over the 3yrs I've used it. The hi-vis yellow coloring has faded, but it's still visible in most lighting conditions.

The tip about tying a knot in the tag end, regardless of what knot you use to tie your bait on with, is a good one ... and one I've used for decades.

Other tips would include :
1- don't fill your reel spool with braid ... use old mono as backing. I suggest a minimum of 1/2 of the spool capacity, as long as that leaves enough braid to accomplish whatever method you're going to use it for (& take that to mean 2x your best casting distance, or at least 2x your trolling distance needs, whichever is greater).

2- don't try & break braid or pull your hook free with your hands Doh .. you'll only end up cutting yourself. Have a dowel rod (or other small, solid object), or towel available to wrap the line around. If you have a cork or foam handled rod, I don't advise using them to wrap the line around, either ... it can cut thru them, as well. A solid graphite (Tenn) handled rod will work, if towel or dowel is not available.

3- do yourself a favor & buy a pair of Childs size Fiskar scissors Hands Clapping and keep them with your fishing tackle. They will cut the braid, but more importantly ... they'll cut it clean & blunt across the tag end (unlike clippers, some knives, & some other types of "cutters"). This clean/blunt tag end will be much easier to thread thru hook/jighead eyes. Other types of "cutting tools" may only crush or rip the line apart ... which leaves a ragged tag end, with fibers that get in the way of pushing the limp line thru a hook/jighead eye. In lieu of Fiskar scissors, I suggest you get a pack of sewing needle threaders (available in sewing stores or craft shop supplies).

4- avoid "wind knots" by keeping pressure on the line, as you retrieve ... and by not using a wrist snap type of cast, but a smooth overhead or sidearm cast.

5- note that : braid floats easier/longer than mono - - wet braid will cling to objects much easier than wet mono - - braid doesn't have much stretch, so back off on the drag just a bit (or lighten up on your hookset :p ... whichever is easiest for you to deal with).

... cp

[Nightprowler]

a fluorocarbon leader will work wonders.

[pescatore]

Everyone's gonna have their favorites :p and I'm no exception, though I will admit ... I've only used two braids.
First one I used was Spiderwire 20/6 (grey color)... and it's on a 8' flyrod/spinning reel outfit. I use it exclusively as a slipfloat/minnow rig outfit, for drift fishing &/or fishing down in the branches of submerged trees. No leader used ... line is tied direct to a #2 litewire hook, with a improved clinch knot. No problems Thumbs Up Line is still usable, & still strong ... even though it's been on this reel for over 20yrs (it sees limited use, these days)

Second one is PowerPro 10/2 hi-vis ... and it's now on a 7' Bionic Blade IM8/Shimano Spirex 2000 outfit. It has yet to be used with this combo. Prior to this, the rod was a 6' Browning MH spinning rod (w/same reel). Primary use will be to cast Roadrunners & Whirley Bees around submerged cover, with a slight potential for deep jigging or trolling use. The PowerPro has performed well, over the 3yrs I've used it. The hi-vis yellow coloring has faded, but it's still visible in most lighting conditions.

The tip about tying a knot in the tag end, regardless of what knot you use to tie your bait on with, is a good one ... and one I've used for decades.

Other tips would include :
1- don't fill your reel spool with braid ... use old mono as backing. I suggest a minimum of 1/2 of the spool capacity, as long as that leaves enough braid to accomplish whatever method you're going to use it for (& take that to mean 2x your best casting distance, or at least 2x your trolling distance needs, whichever is greater).

2- don't try & break braid or pull your hook free with your hands Doh .. you'll only end up cutting yourself. Have a dowel rod (or other small, solid object), or towel available to wrap the line around. If you have a cork or foam handled rod, I don't advise using them to wrap the line around, either ... it can cut thru them, as well. A solid graphite (Tenn) handled rod will work, if towel or dowel is not available.

3- do yourself a favor & buy a pair of Childs size Fiskar scissors Hands Clapping and keep them with your fishing tackle. They will cut the braid, but more importantly ... they'll cut it clean & blunt across the tag end (unlike clippers, some knives, & some other types of "cutters"). This clean/blunt tag end will be much easier to thread thru hook/jighead eyes. Other types of "cutting tools" may only crush or rip the line apart ... which leaves a ragged tag end, with fibers that get in the way of pushing the limp line thru a hook/jighead eye. In lieu of Fiskar scissors, I suggest you get a pack of [COLORsewing needle threaders [/COLOR](available in sewing stores or craft shop supplies).

4- avoid "wind knots" by keeping pressure on the line, as you retrieve ... and by not using a wrist snap type of cast, but a smooth overhead or sidearm cast.

5- note that : braid floats easier/longer than mono - - wet braid will cling to objects much easier than wet mono - - braid doesn't have much stretch, so back off on the drag just a bit (or lighten up on your hookset :p ... whichever is easiest for you to deal with).

... cp

I use dental floss threaders,work great,also use them for tying bobbin threading.

[Cray]

Everything pappy said times 2. One other thing i found when tying your knot. I keep a small tube of super glue in box. after tying knot a small touch of glue on knot will help slipping although i have used improved clinch knot with no problems for years.

[Mike Andrews]

10# Fireline
8# Seaguar InvisX

Joined with this knot:

How To Spectra to Mono connection modified albright

[smoothlures]

I will add if you spool it yourself, do so tightly. When you mash the spooled line it should be hard like a brick. Otherwise you invite tangles you'll spend lots of time trying to undo in your high dollar braid.