Thread: Anyone ever build their own pontoon?

You should (reconsider) it sounds. The $1800 price tag on the one you linked earlier would more than build what you've drawn. Not to mention when you're constantly ask "nice rig, where'd you get that?"...you can say (with a big smile) "I built it"

Again....way early in the game for me, but I doubt I'd spring for Marine Plywood (since I'd require 2 sheets), just for the fact I'd paint it well, and if it needed replaced after 5 years, it wouldn't be expensive to to, and that's only $10/year. I'd even consider aluminum diamond plate formed like a standing-seam roof (only inverted) to the panel sections could be even smaller (than 2-4'x6' plywood sheets), but that's an added expense I doubt I'd want to bear once I priced it.

I got the drop-in cooler idea from looking at pics yesterday and liked it as well. I think I'd add a toe-catch to keep from bending-over every time I had a fish to toss-in. It would also be easy to add a smaller one with a pump for bait to circulate lake water through it, but again, doubt I'd get that extravagant. I've got a nice aerated bucket that'd work fine.

I just saw the seat(s) on a box as opposed to pedestal in a Post I found in a search: http://www.crappie.com/crappie/kayak...-big-boat.html

It's in the link Blackhawk posted for where he got his pontoon (which is extremely nice). Box would be nice (for jacket, etc), but the less I have mounted, the less would need to come-off when knocking-down, plus keeping weight down.

C'mon....I will if you will

Ok. Now I want to add rod lockers. I'll trailer so knock town is not a factor for me.

I still have my aerated cooler well from my canoe.You keep this up and you'll have me starting on this in January.

You will want your driving seat to be aft of the center line to avoid plowing water when you are traveling. Your weight will be enough to tilt the whole rig nose down. I'd think the ideal setup would be for you to sit closer to one end than the other, and to push the rig with the TM while just traveling, then spin around and reverse the TM as well and use it to pull the boat for maneuvering when the nose down attitude won't be a problem.

I'd think the trick would be balancing width and elevation of the platform above the water. If the platform is too high, you'll be unstable, but if too low you'll get water on the deck.

Putting the battery below deck could help with balance.

you could pressurize the pontoons and have a pressure gauge on each one to monitor condition of the pontoon.

Don't overlook the idea of a tri-toon. That would let you go with smaller pipe diameter, at least for a couple of the floats.

Originally Posted by Chasing Ghosts

Check this out.... Hydro Sport 2 Pontoon Boats

First one I suggested was a tri-toon.

As for the TM... mine is a Terrova Bow mount with iPilot... it'e a "puller" Shifting weight aft is a good idea fo getting the bow up.

CG- Well, the more I talk/think about it, the more interest I have in doing it. I've discussed more than one "solution" I'd thought I'd found (or at least close-enough to live with) on this Forum, but nothing that that just fits my needs, though I realize they're a bit specific. So, it seems that being unable to buy something off the shelf to fit them leaves little in the way of alternatives.

On the up-front TM, I'd read on one site (if it's true or not I don't know) that you need a rudder on the back. Might be worth looking into to prevent steering/control issues. I just wanted one on the back mainly to have one less thing to get a fish wrapped-up in, plus shorter wiring since the batteries would be on the back end.


Hey CF, where you been?

I'd just add an extra seat base near/behind center-line and plug the seat into it while motoring, move it to the forward base when gettin' serious (fishing). That would require either buying a keypad controlled TM, or figuring a way to make the console moveable (not so easy with cable steering). Keep in mind my pic was just laid-out with nothing to scale, so it may be much more forward (in the drawing) than it would in actuality. I'm guessing my seat would be closer to the area the cooler is drawn. Regardless, good point that needs to be taken into consideration.

There's also the option to make each "log" from multiple tubes, but, at least at this point for me, the least amount of parts (including cutting and sealing them in the case of the tubes), the better. I believe the 14" PVC I looked at had a .187 wall (3/16"). so it's not going to be easily damaged. I haven't done a cost comparison to see if 3-smaller is near the same as 2-larger, but would still prefer just 2.

I knew most (larger) pontoons run a (VERY slight) bit of air pressure in them. Would be easy to do as a PVC cap (on the back end) would be thick enough to drill and tap for gauge and schrader valve.

Still lots of time for me to make decisions and iron-out plans if I went this route.

TM up front on a toon would be like using it on my Tracker... the motor in back acts as a skeg. I'd add one skeg to each toon. Does not have to be long, just enough profile to have an effect.

Very interesting read. Got me to thinking too.

I had some 1/4" scaled paper, and with the seat laid-out, I'd be setting just forward of centerline (at least that's where the base would be). To save a 2nd base, I might get by with an offset pedestal, or could make an offset base adapter to use under power, and set it aside when fishing. It would be so close I could still use the same location for the console, I'd just reach forward a bit when setting rearward. I'm just trying to keep from spending $ on a bow mount TM.

Well RRR....you've seen 2 sets of plans, lets see yours . So, whaddya think?