I will concur with what has already been said, and will also add a bit to what was suggested to me. On the tail material, you can cut it back to about 1/4th what your using their. you will have more movement in the water. Also as Dave suggested, use the natural tips on the hair and feathers, and if you need to trim the length of tail, trim the end that was cut before attaching it to the hook. your tail tips will turn out more natural, have more movement. Those jigs look good for first time ties, no doubt, and will catch fish. If you don't hang them up and loose them, hold onto them. put them in a box, and in about 6 months, and then every six months or so, break them out and compare them to others you had recently tied.
Something that helps me learn and stay focused, is watch fly and jig tying videos on YouTube every chance you get. It does help. Oh yea, I almost forgot THE most important thing...Welcome to the hobby of jig and fly tying. It's fun, unjoyful, relaxing, and frustrating all at once. And the feeling you get when you catch that first fish on a jig/fly you tied yourself, theirs nothing like it...Enjoy and have fun. Let your imagination run wild. Welcome.
Last edited by Jamesdean; 07-03-2021 at 07:04 PM. Reason: Adding content
Proud to have served with and supported the Units I was in: 1st IDF, 9th INF, 558th USAAG (Greece), 7th Transportation Brigade, 6th MEDSOM (Korea), III Corp, 8th IDF, 3rd Armor Div.
1980 Ebbtide Dyna-Trak 160 Evinrude 65 TriumphGrumpyLoomis, MCG1 LIKED above post
Hey RW, James has a point about less IS more. I had a jig I tied that was working but I learned 2 things, Feathers kept getting pulled off one by one. The fewer feathers I had the more fish I caught. After a couple of days the jig finally went bald. LOL The thing I started doing was add a drop of thread cement to thread wrap then wrapped chenille with less feathers. This was before we had computers to assist.Keep them coming.
Proud to have served with and supported the Units I was in: 1st IDF, 9th INF, 558th USAAG (Greece), 7th Transportation Brigade, 6th MEDSOM (Korea), III Corp, 8th IDF, 3rd Armor Div.
1980 Ebbtide Dyna-Trak 160 Evinrude 65 TriumphGrumpyLoomis LIKED above post
Yep Skeet is a proponent for sure. I tie mostly bucktail and have found it is true with that too. One thing though is with my silicon rubber tails walleye tend to like it full but shorter. That really doesn't apply here on a crappy site, just thought I would share.
Jamesdean LIKED above post
10-4
I understand what you are saying about trimming the jig side for length and less is more. Thanks for the feedback!
GrumpyLoomis, Jamesdean LIKED above post
Keep working the materials, as what you deem to be good now will turn into trash tomorrow. I have a pile of misfits that at the time seemed avant- garde. Mimicking what has already been proven to be effective is a way to shorten the learning curve. Be patient with your self and allow your skill sets to form.
Maybe they will bite this one……Jamesdean, GrumpyLoomis LIKED above post
Micanopy, This is THE hardest part I've had to contend with, but could not be truer. PATIENCE...PRACTICE...PATIENCE
Proud to have served with and supported the Units I was in: 1st IDF, 9th INF, 558th USAAG (Greece), 7th Transportation Brigade, 6th MEDSOM (Korea), III Corp, 8th IDF, 3rd Armor Div.
1980 Ebbtide Dyna-Trak 160 Evinrude 65 Triumph
The reason we don’t go past the tip of the hook with the chenille is that it starts to fill the hook gap. This will help the fish say goodbye before you get to meet them. Some of mine are actually shorter than that and I see no reduction in hits. I tie one that is on a #8 hook and a 1/32 with4 pieces of rubber leg material and 3 turns of small chenille and a bare head. Works surprisingly well for an experiment when I was bored at the bench once. If you want to see simple, look up a Popeye jig.
Creativity is just intelligence fooling around