Thread: 1st bow help

The Hi performance bows are Hi end. I shot several brand over many years. I was partial to the PSE> I am behind times now and am not up on the latest and greatest. I think the Mathews is the top of the line. If I was in the market for a new bow that is where I would start looking. Dont go to a pawn shop and buy just any bow. The draw length is critical. If it is too long or too short you cant shoot it. Dont get more poundage than you can handle. Good luck with your hunting!

I would first find a local bow shop and be measured for pull length and weight.

I have a Mathews Switchback, 60lb, 27in. draw length, a hard case, soft case, one dozen carbon arrows, broadheads and a couple of releases. The bow is like new, $600.00 firm....

I was at dicks sporting goods yesterday and saw the PSE white tale madness, does any one have any experence with this bow?

Talldude, welcome to the forum!

Now. Bows are like shoes and clothing. In order for you to be satisfied and in order for them to work as designed, they must be fitted to you. That will require the assistance of a bow shop.

I'll bet dollars to donuts that any bow shop worth their salt will listen to your situation and spend time to get you fitted -- on budget. You see, they KNOW that if they treat you right, that you may become a valued repeat customer.

Whatever bow you buy, be sure and just make the most of it. You don't have to have the latest and greatest bow to be a successful bow hunter. If you grandfather's old compound just happened to fit you, it might be just the ticket for your first season or two. Take it to the bow shop and let the look it over. It MUST fit your draw length above all else. I'd bet that since you're tall that your draw length is longer than average, as well. But you need to be measured by the pro, fer sur.

Once you get a bow, you will need arrows to match the bow. They must be matched for optimum, steady performance. I have been bow hunting since the young tender age of 13. I am now 61. My first bow was a fiberglass laminated Ben Pearson 50lb Couger. It was a real simple bow. I used cedar shafts and fixed, two-blade, glue-on broadheads. To this day I use aluminum arrows, miniblaster 3 mechanical broadheads because they DELIVER. My bow tackle is the same for whitetail deer as for turkeys. It keeps things simple sos I don't have to retune my bow with the change of seasons.

I killed my share of animals over the years and as the years progressed I got the bow that I wanted. I am not one of these folks that has to have the fastest, quietest, latest and greatest bow. Matter of fact, I admire a man that uses what he has to its greatest extent. Back in 2000 (I think), I bought a new Matthews LX. Now I know that's a bunch o' money, but at my age, I figured I would get a bow I could shoot until I got too old to pull it back. I bit the bullet and had it set up for 70lbs and have never looked back. I've pulled 70lbs for eons, being a former body builder, I still have the musculature to do the job without being overbowed.

Each year the new, hot bows come out and I just look at mine and think, "Is there something about this LX that will keep it from killing deer and turkey for me this year?" And, of course, the answer is "no." Other than replacing the string and buying a few arrows every now and then, I see absolutely no need to 'upgrade.' My LX will kill anything I aim at on the continent if I get close enough and that's all I ask of a bow.

If I can help you in any way whatsoever, you just pm me and let me know what it is you are pondering.

Get acquainted with a good, professional bow shop...and you'll be on your way. But don't wait until the fall. Now is the time if you want them to spend quality time with you. Around September, the bow shops are an absolute madhouse.

One final thing: do some research on kenetic energy. If your bow winds up not being so fast, then don't let someone talk you into buying broadheads that cut a two-and-a-half-inch swath through an animal. A slower bow will not produce the energy upon impact to get the penetration you will need. The slowere the bow, the smaller diameter the broadhead will need to be.

Hope this helps. <><

aj

Check out Archerytalk.com! I found a used Mathews Outback for 350$ with a case and fully rigged! Buy the best you can afford because it will be more forgiving. My first bow was a Golden Eagle and then a Fred Bear combo from Wal-mart. Either will get you started. Check out AT for some good advice!

Alot of great advice. The best being go to a proshop and have them fit you and set you up. Being your first bow I would recomend somthing with a singlecam and dont buy anything with a braceheight less than 7". If you are very tall you might want a bow with atleast 32" axle to axle length. If you get fitted to your bow you will shoot it alot better. Ive not shot the madness bow but have heard good things about them. Im shooting a Bear Truth and love it.

ArkieJohn, gave you some excellent advice. He and I are the same age and started bowhunting at 13. Amazing!! And we don't even know eachother.

Couple of things. Don't get ate up with speed. I'll give up a little speed for quite. Give me quite any day. A good professional bow shop will do you a good job. They have to know exactly what you're looking for, then they can help you get there. If you feel pressured or uncomfortable, go somewhere else - right now!!

Like ArkieJohn, I've shot em all. Stick bow with cedar ho'made arrows, and glued on bear broad heads to the fanciest, newest fandangel on the market. Just make sure your bow is comfortable. Try to keep the brace height (ask your pro) to at least 7", and remember, GENERALLY, a shorter bow is less forgiving, that's GENERALLY. These new bows have come a long way. My son shoots a BowTech and loves it. Not sure what model. I'm shootin a 5 year old Hoyt. Been tryin toconvince myself I need another newer bow, but I killed about everything I've pulled a string on, so what's the point? This year I did change out my cable and string, and gained some speed and even more quietness.

As important as your bow, make sure your pro gives you some pointers on good technique. The most expensive bow shot incorrectly is just an arrow flung, and the game you're hunting demands your respect. Hint: I know hundreds of guys that can dot an "I" on paper at 60 yards, but who'll gut shot a trophy deer at 20. Shooting is only 25&#37; of the total deal. Scouting, scent control, scouting, use of the wind, scouting, tree stand location and height, scouting, and patience, are the things that make up the other 75%, and make you a good hunter, not just a good shooter. Did I mention scouting????

You are about to enter a new deminsion in life. It is truly a life changing event. Pay attention and enjoy it. Buy a bow that fits, is comfortable, and correctly tuned. You'll know it when you find it. Get your arrows spined correctly, use an appropriate broadhead, and practice good techniques, and you'll be plenty happy with your new friend (bow). Good luck and happy scouting, whoops!!! I mean hunting.

Lotta good advice so far. I'll also mention that Arkie John is definitely somebody to listen to.

Also sounds like a lotta Mathews fans on here :D. That's not a bad thing at all. Mathews makes some mighty fine bows and I got my eye on a Reezen 6.5 right now as a matter of fact . I shoot a BowTech Guardian as of today though and I love it to death.

Go down to the local archery or outdoors store where you are and get them to measure your draw length. Find a bow that feels right to you. Don't know how strong you are, but go with the highest poundage you can handle comfortably. I wouldn't pay as much attention to the brand as I would what feels right. Then again, some folks prefer to have this or that stamp on their bow so they can tell everybody and put the sticker on their truck.

You will get what you pay for in a bow. Mathews, BowTech, Hoyt, PSE, Elite (if you can find them in your area) and others are all worth looking into. All of these manufacturers have some incredible bows out this year and you can also find used bows for sale for some great prices from other guys who must have the latest and greatest and sell their "last year" bow every summer or fall. Definitely check out ArcheryTalk Forum: Target & Bowhunting Chat - Powered by vBulletin and the bowhunting section of HuntingNet.com Forums. I'd pay more attention to what you read on Archery Talk though. HNI is more of a bunch of gloating, bragging, and otherwise elitest mouth running. Also, keep in mind Archery Talk has a Mathews and Hoyt bias and HNI has a BowTech bias . Just an FYI. Always shoot the bow yourself before you develope an opinion on a brand.

In my opinion, for my first bow, I'd try to find one that I could control and shoot well with as opposed to the fastest thing I could find. What I mean is, you will find that a bow with a higher brace height and a longer axle to axle will be more forgiving than a bow with a lower BH and AxA. Also remember that speed is good, but 280 fps will flat out kill anything you shoot with it.

Good luck with this and let us know what you get.